Prijatno!

Shubhra Ramineni’s “Palak” Paneer

2011-03-31T22:24:00.001-05:00

I first met the genteel and beautiful Shubhra Ramineni at a pasta class hosted by fellow Chowhound Jay Francis. With her handsome husband and the cutest baby in tow, she graciously allowed us a first look at her cookbook, Entice with Spice, Easy Indian Recipes for Busy People which was in the process of publication.

Upon opening the book, I was greeted by a collage of family photos, travel images of India and of course, Indian food and markets. Particularly catchy to me was a colorful map of Shubhra’s motherland citing family members’ birthplaces, notable monuments and regional food products. What followed was a listing of over 90 recipes and a veritable account of how a successful engineer became a cook and author: it came from a need to drop the unhealthy eating habits she had developed as an overworked corporate individual and go back to the nutritious diet on which she was raised.

Shubhra naturally turned to her family for recipes and developed them with a busy lifestyle in mind. The novice cook will find an invaluable 25-page mini-encyclopedia within the book which includes sections headed Indian Cooking Made Easy; Cookware and Tools; Tips and Techniques; Freezing, Refrigerating and Reheating Methods; and Essential Indian Ingredients. Did you know that in India “curry” is a plant and also means ‘gravy’ or ‘sauce’ and not the blend of spices developed by English colonists; that the bright red color of tandoori chicken comes from the addition of coloring (!); and that carom seeds (a new one for me) aid in settling upset gassy tummies? The book has helpful tips accompanying many recipes; some including instructional photos showing the important steps.

I have had limited success with cooking Indian food because I was usually following recipes with a mind-boggling array of spices and complicated and long-winded cooking methods. After less than stellar results, my family would drop hints about “going out for Indian” more often! That’s not the case with Shubhra’s Saag Paneer. It’s my favorite Indian dish and the first recipe I made from her book. Hubs and I finished it off quickly and I made more a few days later. It is easy to make and it’s full of spicy flavor! For part of the spinach, I substituted chard and kale that I harvested in the beautiful garden of Ralph Smith Photography. The garden is an organic wonder that provides herbs, fruits and vegetables year round, some of which are used in Ralph’s photo shoots.

A colorful feast for the eyes

Creamy and spicy with home made paneer

“Palak” Paneer slightly adapted from Shubhra Ramineni’s Saag Paneer.

Serves 4

1 pound (500g) fresh chard, washed, de-ribbed and coarsely chopped

1 pound (500g) fresh spinach, washed, trimmed and coarsely chopped, or a 10-ounce (285g) package of frozen spinach

2 ripe tomatoes, quartered

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ to ½ heaping teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 small onion, diced

1 – 2 serrano peppers, diced

1 recipe Paneer (Indian cheese), cubed and pan-fried, see recipe below

½ cup (125ml) heavy cream, or more to taste

Place chard, spinach and tomato in a medium saucepan over medium heat. If you’re using frozen spinach add ½ cup water. Cook for 7 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add turmeric, red pepper, salt and black pepper. Stir to combine and cover. Simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The greens will become soft and tender and the tomatoes will become mushy. Remove from heat and puree using an immersion blender or transfer contents to a blender and puree until smooth.

Pour the oil into a small skillet and place over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the ginger, onion and serrano pepper. Sauté until the onion is browned, stirring frequently, about 4 minutes. Pour into the saucepan with the greens. Add the paneer (cheese cubes) and heavy cream and stir to combine. Simmer for 5 minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Enjoy immediately or cool and refrigerate for later.

Paneer (Indian cheese)

Makes ¼ pound (125g)

4 cups (1 liter) whole milk

juice of 1 lime

Pour milk into a heavy medium pot. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, stirring frequently as it comes to a boil. Don’t let it boil over. Immediately reduce the heat to medium-low.

Add lime juice and stir for about 45 seconds or until the milk separates into curds (solids) and whey (liquid). If the milk does not separate add more lime juice - 2 teaspoons at a time – until it separates.

Fold a large piece of cheesecloth to create four layers. Line a colander with cheesecloth and place it over a large bowl to catch the whey. Pour the curds into the cheesecloth. Let the whey drain through the cheesecloth into the bowl.

Gather the sides of the cheesecloth to create a bundle and press it against the side of the pot to squeeze out the excess whey. Be careful as it will be hot.

Place the bundle on a plate. Unfold the cheesecloth and with your hands, mold the cheese, now paneer, into a square block about ¾-inch thick. Fold the cheesecloth back over the paneer.

Pour the whey into the pot that the milk boiled in. Place the pot on top of the paneer and allow the rest of the whey to drain out, about 30 minutes.

Remove pot and discard the whey. Unfold the cheesecloth. Transfer the paneer to a plate and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for a minimum of one hour and up to one day before using.

To fry Paneer: Cut the paneer into ¾-inch cubes. You should get about 16 or so. Pour 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil into a non-stick skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the cubed paneer. Fry the cubes until they are lightly browned on all sides, turning very carefully to retain their shapes. Remove from skillet and drain on a plate that has been lined with a paper towel.

Prijatno!

Root Vegetable Soup

2011-02-21T22:06:00.001-06:00

As I sit at my computer today, the sun has made a strong appearance and is cheekily playing on the lifeless leaves of our many dead plants and trees. The view outside is not too encouraging. After two hard freezes earlier this month and the promise of snow (alas, Mother Nature did not deliver) it’s time to uproot that which could not withstand the extreme temperatures and wind, and replant.

After the loss of a bumper producing Key (Mexican) lime tree – the one that was responsible for the most amazing ‘Lime-cello’ - we have decided that our new lime trees will grow in large pots from now on. Even though it will be a pain to move them come winter, it will be easier than having to start anew. Citrus trees take several years to establish themselves but once they are ready their harvests are truly enjoyable! After finally amazing us with dozens of beautiful lemons hanging like golden ornaments a couple of years ago my Meyer lemon produced only 2 lemons this year. I’m hoping it will recover in time for the next crop.

I was fortunate not to have to leave home while temperatures in the twenties brought freezing rain and caused no less than 750 traffic accidents during a 15-hour period alone! There was much whining down south and much teasing from our hardier countrymen up north! Say what you will, but our cars and homes are equipped to handle extreme heat and not the ice and freeze, and the memory of Husbie watching TV with his ski cap on always produces a chuckle!

This Root Vegetable Soup first introduced on New Year’s Day made a heartwarming reprise. Each root vegetable has a distinctive flavor that is not lost in the simple broth. It’s not too late to make it this winter.

From left to right: rutabaga, carrots, fennel, red jalapeno peppers, garlic and parsnips

Root Vegetable Soup

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ onion, diced

1 small fennel bulb, trimmed at the bottom and sliced, including tops (save some leaves for decoration)

½ red bell pepper or 2 red jalapeno peppers, halved lengthwise and then sliced

1 clove garlic, smashed, peeled and sliced

1 small rutabaga, peeled and diced in ¾ inch pieces

1 carrot, peeled and sliced into ½ inch discs

1 parsnip, peeled and sliced into ½ inch discs

6 black whole peppercorns

5 - 6 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade

salt, to taste

1 chicken bouillon cube, optional

1 scallion, sliced on the diagonal

sprinkle of red pepper flakes for some heat, optional

Heat olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add chopped onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes.

Add fennel, red peppers and garlic. Sauté for 1 minute, stirring constantly so that the garlic doesn’t burn.

Add rutabaga, carrot, parsnip and peppercorns to the pot. Cover with chicken broth and cook until vegetables are just tender. Season with salt and chicken bouillon, if desired.

Serve hot with sliced scallion, red pepper flakes and fennel fronds.

Prijatno!

Roasted poblano and corn soup

2011-01-19T12:45:00.001-06:00

Every New Year’s Day our home calls for a gathering of family and friends. After the detritus from fireworks has been swept away and our minds have cleared of the bubbly imbibed the night before, those closest to me trickle in for a low-key celebration to welcome the start of a new calendar year. The stars of the meal are invariably Krofne - Serbian doughnuts. Sweet and yeasty, they symbolize growth, abundance and everything good from the first day on. While the yeast dough is rising and the kids wait patiently for the first batch of krofne to come out of the fryer, we indulge in a variety of soups. In the old country soup is consumed almost every day and is an integral part of the main meal. A clear thin broth at the start stimulates the appetite for heavier courses to follow.

In our new homeland, there are heartwarming and nourishing favorites that make an appearance every New Year’s Day – my sister’s Chicken Tortilla Soup from Stop and Smell the Rosemary; Wild Mushroom Soup - a thick and creamy combination of wild and cultivated mushrooms always laced with sherry, port or Marsala and sometimes finished off with dried porcini powder; and Debbie’s Potato Soup that I learned to make during a ski trip to Utah several years ago.

Since I love to change things up and can’t leave well alone (a common complaint of favorite husband!) I introduce a couple of new soups every year. This year I made a Root Vegetable Soup including rutabagas and parsnips and a Roasted Poblano and Corn Soup. Both were very well received!

My personal favorite this year was the Roasted Poblano and Corn Soup. I come from a food culture that takes its peppers very seriously. Every fall a haze blankets the old country and excites the senses with its sweet-smoky aroma. Caused by the rising smoke of roasting sumptuous red peppers, families gather to make and can this distinctive relish known as ajvar. It is a labor-intensive but much loved tradition. Ajvar defines our cuisine and is eaten daily throughout the year.

Living in Texas and in close proximity to Mexico has been a boon for me when it comes to food. I think it’s safe to say that much of Mexican cuisine includes the use of an enormous variety of peppers. Native to South and Central America, peppers were introduced to southeast Asia hundreds of years ago and spread throughout the world during the spice trade. The poblano pepper has been my favorite pepper for many years now. Far more complex in taste than your common green bell pepper, the poblano chile can range in heat from mild to hot. My Roasted Poblano and Corn Soup will be as spicy as the heat intensity in the poblano peppers dictate. In my mind, the higher on the poblano range of the Scoville scale the better!

The poblano pepper’s firm walls and pseudo heart shape lends itself well to being roasted and stuffed as in Chiles en Nogada and Chiles Rellenos. Poblano chiles are a bold contrast to avocados in my favorite omelette and add crunch to a flavorful chicken salad. When dried, the poblano chile is called an ancho chile, a key ingredient of Mexican mole.

Poblano peppers under the broiler. Roasting the peppers imparts a smoky flavor and intensifies the heat:

As you can see the skin has already separated from the flesh and is very easy to peel:

Corn, another ‘new world’ wonder, adds sweetness and balance to the heat:

The soup before it is blended:

Roasted Poblano and Corn Soup loosely adapted from a recipe by M.S. Milliken & S. Feniger

Serves 6

9 – 10 poblano chiles, about 2 pounds

2 ears or fresh corn, husks intact, silken ends trimmed

1 quart milk (I used 1% but any other milk will do)

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 bay leaf

1/4 cup olive oil

1 medium onion, diced

2 large cloves garlic, minced

½ -1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 cups chicken stock

chopped chives, cilantro, sour cream and lime segments for garnish, optional

To roast the poblano chiles and corn you may grill or broil them – the choice is yours. Preheat the broiler in your oven or fire up your grill. Grease the poblanos by dipping your fingers in a little oil and rubbing them all around. Place poblanos and corn about 5 inches below the broiler or on the grill. Roast until charred on all sides, turning every few minutes. Place roasted poblanos in a bowl or paper bag. Cover and allow them to steam for about 15 minutes. Now clean them but do not run them under water to rinse them. You will lose their flavorful juices if you do so. Carefully peel the skin off the poblanos. Pull the stem off but be careful not to burn your fingers as the steam escapes. Split the poblanos in two lengthwise. Remove the seeds and discard. Chop coarsely and place in a bowl with any juices that they may have released. When the corn husks are charred on all sides, remove them from the broiler or grill and cool. Remove husks and silk and cut kernels off with a knife. Place in a bowl with the chopped poblano peppers. Set aside.

Infuse the milk by placing it in a medium saucepan with the cumin seeds and bay leaf. Place over medium heat and bring to a bare simmer but do not boil. Remove from heat and let sit for 20 minutes.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté until starting to brown, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add the garlic and ground cumin and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes. Then stir in the diced poblanos and corn kernels and continue to cook over low heat for 5 more minutes.

Using a sieve, strain the infused milk into the corn and chili mixture. Add the chicken stock and bring to a slow simmer over low heat. Simmer gently for 15 minutes.

To puree the soup you can use an immersion blender and puree to the consistency of your liking. You can also cool the soup for about 20 minutes (to prevent possible explosion of soup) and pour it into a food processor or blender to puree it. Pour it back into the soup pot to warm before serving.

Serve hot with sour cream, chives and cilantro as garnish and a squeeze of few drops of fresh lime juice.

Prijatno!

Foraging with chef Randy Rucker

2010-12-13T19:27:00.000-06:00

We couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful day when fourteen eager food-centric men and women gathered at Bootsie’s Heritage Café in Tomball, Texas. Inspired by local chef Randy Rucker, we met with a purpose - to bring out the gatherer in us. Inherent in humans since the beginning of time, it’s an activity largely lost to us today due to industrialization and a small but very powerful number of corporations that control our food supplies and have in many cases sucked all semblance and nutritional value from our food…if you haven’t seen Food, Inc. yet, do so immediately!

On a positive note, a shift to a local and sustainable culture is gaining momentum with Farmer’s Markets popping up everywhere in the nation. Chef Monica Pope coined it best: eat where your food lives! A sweet vine-ripened tomato grown in your own garden or by a local farmer will be far superior tasting to one that has travelled thousands of miles. Oh yeah, and it’s better for the local economy and the environment. Consider fruit from Chile - it travels some 4,000 to 5,000 miles to get to your grocery store. In many cases it is harvested unripe, coated in wax and treated to retard its ripening…hello green bananas!

A leader in promoting local produce and meat, Randy Rucker talks about the local terroir. Terroir is the French work for “land” originally used by the wine industry to describe the flavors the soil imparts on grape vines and ultimately the wines produced from those grapes. Animals raised for food that eat what the terroir produces taste better. When cooked and accompanied by local vegetables in season, Mother Nature’s ultimate gift for nourishment and healing is gained.

So it is with foraging. Wild, edible plants offer a range of flavors and benefits. It was at one of Randy’s Tenacity dinners last year that I discovered peppery - sour wood sorrel and purslane, which imparted a distinct lemon flavor. Enthusiastic about his vocation, Randy’s vision for his restaurant is that it is “consistently inconsistent”. With an emphasis on the freshest food, Randy and his young crew forage several times a week. He is also training his chefs to not only update the restaurant menu daily, but hourly. He shuns fixed menus, claiming that there is only a short window of time that vegetables, once harvested, are at their peek.

A heartwarming breakfast of house-made venison sausage, soft-boiled eggs, biscuits and gravy prepared us for the brisk but sunny weather outdoors. After a short introduction to the area and perusal of a website by local forager Merriwether, we were confident that we would find many edible native treasures. Our first stop was Burroughs Park, a gorgeous 320-acre enclave offering many amenities, including a beautiful wooded area with winding trails.

David, Kelsey, chef Randy and Chuck examine the terroir.

This Beautyberry cluster lives up to its name. Eaten raw, pickled or made into jelly, beautyberries can also be made into wine.

Edible Lichen must be boiled to neutralize its high acid content.

We also found Bittercress, Chickweed and Queen Anne’s lace (wild carrot). Below, Wood Sorrel…found in my front yard the next morning!

Tiny dollarweed can be hard to find but is very pretty on a plate.

Chuck was determined to find sassafras – and he did at the very end of our expedition. The leaves of the sassafras come in three distinct shapes. When dried and ground to a powder, it is know as filé. Added to gumbo at the end of cooking, it enhances the flavors of the stew with its earthiness. The root is used to make tea and root beer.

Our next stop was “the farm”, a large plot with several organic beds and fruit and nut trees. Crops are rotated annually to maintain the soil’s high nutrient levels.

A pea plant

I’m holding the largest and most beautiful bunch of lettuce I have ever seen! In the absence of a grocery bag, I made a pouch of my sweater. I stuffed it with bok choy, borage, kale and green beans! It was a highly fruitful and edifying day!

Prijatno!

Szechuan eggplant with pork and hot bean sauce

2010-11-05T13:19:00.001-05:00

My friend Chantal and I were feeling pretty relaxed and rejuvenated after our acupuncture sessions recently. We left with instructions to refrain from touching our right ears for a couple of hours. Do you know that your ears alone have dozens of reflex points that address a myriad of ailments including hypertension, nervous disorders and inflammation? The bursa in my shoulder felt great after being stimulated by a dozen or so tiny needles and we decided on a casual lunch in nearby Chinatown.

Le Lai Restaurant is situated in the old Dynasty Plaza shopping mall on Bellaire. One of the original Chinese malls built long before the massive expansion of Chinatown in west Houston, Dynasty Plaza is now in desperate need of a facelift inside and out. For now, it seems to be holding its own against umpteen spiffy malls nearby, thanks to an old and loyal clientele.

In Le Lai Restaurant, we noticed that were were the only Caucasians present – not an unusual sight considering the size of Houston’s Chinese community. It is also a great indicator that were about to enjoy an authentic Chinese meal! A large menu foreign to us both was posted at the counter but our table menus provided us with translations. Service was terse and brisk and our order of whole fried fish and Szechwan eggplant was delicious. At $4.50 per lunch plate, our bill came to $9.89 including tax. To our surprise Chantal’s iced tea, my jasmine tea and two bowls of soup were included for free - quite a bargain! We were quite satisfied until…

An Oriental woman walked towards the exit, paused beside our table and smiled at us. We were somewhat surprised to be acknowledged by this little old lady. Before she disappeared through the door she gibed sarcastically, “Cheaper than McDonald’s, eh?”

Her question took several stunned seconds to digest. We looked at each other in dismay and sheer disbelief. We were obviously the result of a common stereotype that all Americans eat at McDonald’s. We have never taken to fast food since we both grew up in foreign lands and are accomplished cooks. Much of our friendship revolves around dining on gourmet food and wine, cooking and experimenting in the kitchen. Heck, our meals and desserts are all made from scratch; my husband and I tend a vegetable garden every year; and for the Chinese lady’s information I make pasta, filo dough for strudel and even her native homeland’s dumplings from scratch!

Stereotypes about the eating habits of groups of people are unfortunate but very prevalent. We all have them in varying degrees. Had the old Chinese lady kept hers to herself she would not have shown herself to be ignorant and rude and we would have ended our meal on a more positive note.

Bad vibes aside, here’s a recipe Chantal shared with me that she learned from Dorothy Huang, a local cooking instructor and author. It’s important to have all of the ingredients ready before you start to cook as tender Japanese eggplant cooks quickly. Here it is coated in a rich sweet and spicy brown sauce.

Szechwan Eggplant with pork and hot bean sauce

adapted from Dorothy Huang’s Chinese Cooking

Serves 2

Seasoning sauce:

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons chicken stock

2 tablespoons hot bean sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon dry sherry

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Mix all of the ingredients listed for the seasoning sauce in a small bowl.

Have all of the following ingredients ready before cooking:

1½ pounds Japanese eggplant (the long, slender kind with thin skins)

3 tablespoons oil

1 teaspoon minced ginger root

2 teaspoons minced garlic

¼ pound lean ground pork

salt, to taste

½ cup chicken broth

2 green onions, chopped

Rinse the eggplant. If they are small, the peel will be tender and you do not have to peel them; if they are large with a tough skin, peel them first. Cut eggplant into 1/2 inch chunks.

Heat oil in a wok over high heat. Add ginger root, garlic and ground pork; stir for 1 minute.

Add eggplant and salt, stirring constantly for 1 minute. Add chicken broth, turn heat to medium, cover and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or more.

Add seasoning sauce and chopped green onions; stir until thickened and serve with steamed rice.

Prijatno!

Asparagus, tomato and Gruyère tart

2010-09-30T23:59:00.001-05:00

This colorful vegetable tart is the reason favorite Daughter is hooked on asparagus! I came across this simple recipe in Martha’s vast recipe collection several years ago and it has been requested many times. Served as an appetizer or main dish when accompanied with a soup or salad, this tart has a handful of ingredients and is very easy to prepare – it fits right into a young lady’s busy college schedule.

I have been fortunate to have children that love vegetables. We were never a fast-food family as that option was not available to my parents in South Africa when I was little. My kids ate what was served at our dinner table and our extended family feasts from the get-go. I was spared the drama of picky eaters and watched their friends exhibit some strange behaviors. One young neighbor never ate at our home. He subsisted on a diet of chicken nuggets alone. I’m sad to see that he is now an obese young man. Another young girl asked me what that whole bird was I had sitting in a roasting pan. It was a chicken… And I once come across a kid at the check-out counter that could not recognize broccoli (!) so he couldn’t look up the PLU code. It’s no wonder we are now in the midst of a health crisis with no change in sight.

When it comes to asparagus, I always buy the bunch with the thinnest spears and fresh buds. It’s just a personal preference, but any thickness is good. An excellent provider of Vitamin K, folate, Vitamins C and A, asparagus is also a natural diuretic and is high in antioxidants.

This recipe combines the flavors or asparagus and Swiss-made Gruyère cheese. They pair beautifully together and it’s no wonder – they are both common items in the Swiss kitchen. Here I have added sliced cherry tomatoes to the mix for a beautiful and delicious presentation.

Asparagus, tomato and Gruyère tart adapted from a recipe by Martha Stewart

a little flour for the work surface

1 sheet frozen puff pastry

5½ ozs (2 cups) Gruyère cheese, grated

1½ pounds thin or medium asparagus

8 cherry tomatoes, sliced in half

1 tablespoon olive oil

salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 400ºF.

On a floured surface, roll the puff pastry into a 16-by-10-inch rectangle. Trim uneven edges. Place pastry on a baking sheet (I line mine with a silpat). With a sharp knife, lightly score pastry dough 1 inch in from the edges to mark a rectangle. Using a fork, pierce dough inside the markings at 1/2-inch intervals.

Sprinkle pastry with Gruyère. Trim the bottoms of the asparagus spears to fit crosswise inside the tart shell. Arrange asparagus and tomato halves in a single layer over Gruyère. Brush with oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake until spears are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven and cool for 5 minutes.

Cut tart with a pizza cutter into desirable pieces. Serve hot.

Make sure you sprinkle some cheese on the edges too!

Prijatno!

Sōté seasoned salmon, roasted Hatch pepper sauce and Jicama mango ‘slaw’

2010-09-22T19:02:00.001-05:00

I was introduced to a great seasoning blend after a volunteer stint recently. If you are a Houston Chowhound, you are undoubtedly thinking about food most of your waking hours. Which vendor has the freshest seafood? Which taco truck is conveniently located on your errand route? Where to savor your next gourmet meal? So it was no surprise to me when a fellow civically-minded Chowhound organized a meeting of our food-obsessed minds at the Houston Food Bank early one Saturday morning.

After a short tour of the facility, we entered the vast kitchen. A thorough hand-washing followed, and then we donned the oh-so-flattering hairnets, plastic aprons and gloves and formed two long assembly lines. I was in first position in my line, separating individual containers and portioning out handfuls of ice-cold spaghetti from an enormous bin to my right. My friend Maureen followed with a piece or two of chicken, and the rest in line scooped vegetables, sauce, parmesan, fresh basil (yes fresh basil) and lastly, canned fruit. By the time each container reached Gary, Maureen’s husband, it was pretty greasy and sticky. Gary was responsible for one of the ‘sealing machines’ and tried gallantly to keep the plastic wrap in position so that it could form a tight seal on each tray before it was carted off to the freezer. Fortunately for us he is mechanically inclined and in less than three hours we had assembled almost 1,000 wholesome meals!

To my left was a quiet gentleman named Larry. He was not part of our assembly line. He had a special spot at the head of the table and was our designated “basil chopper”. Larry wowed us with his superior knife skills by mincing bushels of basil for the spaghetti dinners we were packaging. I later found out that his ‘gramma’ Douglas developed a recipe for a delicious Kosher seasoning named Sōté.

Sōté, pronounced So-tay, stands for “salt of the earth”. The Serb in me and my knowledge of Cyrillic loves the use of diacritic marks in the label! Sōté is a mixture of Kosher salt, black pepper, paprika, garlic, chilli, ginger, spice extract, turmeric and other spices. It is not spicy and contains no MSG. Salt is King here and the accompanying spices dance delicately around him.

Coarse Kosher salt, black pepper, paprika…

Larry gifted me with a few containers to share with friends and family (disclaimer: I am not making a dime as I promote it). I have used it on baby back ribs and flatiron steaks with great results. Sōté is also suitable for vegetables but be forewarned that it is mostly salt so a little sprinkle goes a long way. I lightly sprinkled the salmon in my recipe below and paired it with a homemade roasted Hatch pepper sauce for a little fire and a sweet and crunchy jicama salad – the pairings were excellent!

Sōté is locally produced (another positive point in my mind) and packaged by the Texas Custom Spice Company in Houston. The packaging is understated and comes in a well-sealed metal container with a see-through lid. To order Sōté, click on the link. Also for sale are cool t-shirts and salt shakers.

Juicy ‘slaw’

Sōté rubbed salmon with Hatch pepper sauce and Jicama mango slaw

Serves 2

¾ lb salmon filet

Sōté seasoning or seasoning of your choice

1 tablespoon olive oil

Pat salmon dry with a paper towel to remove any moisture. Rub a little Sōté seasoning on the salmon, remembering that the Sōté is mostly salt.

Pour olive oil into an oven-proof pan or cast iron skillet. Heat pan over medium heat until the oil is very hot. Carefully add the salmon, skin side down. Cover with a splatter shield if necessary to prevent oil from splashing everywhere. Sauté salmon until the edges begin to turn color, about 5 – 6 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the broiler. Remove pan with salmon from heat and place under broiler for 2 minutes to sear the top. Remove pan from oven using an oven mitt. Serve with Hatch pepper green sauce and Jicama mango slaw.

Hatch pepper sauce

¼ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup sour cream

1 roasted Hatch pepper (spicy or not), skin removed, stemmed and seeded

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

¼ cup lightly packed cilantro leaves

1 peeled and chopped Roma tomato

Place all ingredients in a small blender and blend until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Jicama mango ‘slaw’

½ lb jicama, peeled and julienned (use the mandoline for this if you have one)

1 mango, peeled, sliced thin and then longwise into thin strips

8 radishes, sliced thinly (here again, the mandoline comes in handy)

1/3 cup red onion, sliced thin

¼ cup cilantro, chopped

4 tablespoons fresh orange juice

4 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon sesame oil

salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Chill until ready to serve. Serve using tongs to drain slaw from the juices.

Colorful juice from the ‘slaw’

Prijatno!

Hatch chilies in scalloped potatoes and gruyere cheese

2010-09-09T00:02:00.001-05:00

If ever there is too short a season for a flavorful vegetable it has to be Hatch pepper season. Two to three weeks is all we get and if you’re not paying attention, you might miss the call of these extraordinary chilies. The arrival of Hatch chilies from New Mexico around mid-August is a much anticipated event in Houston. It’s when my favorite grocery stores, Central Market and H.E.B roll out the rotating cages, crank up the fires and for a few lively weeks excite our senses during the Hatch Chile Festival.

The aroma of roasting Hatches emanating from the parking lots act as a magnet to pepper lovers miles away. As if we haven’t already perspired enough through the hot and humid summer, the Hatch heat index sweats our foreheads and clears our sinuses with spice levels from mild to very hot. Live music adds to the festivities and a feeling of merriment and well-being follows! In what must be a highly lucrative operation, Central Market has included Hatch chilies in products such as sausage, guacamole, meatballs, crab cakes, tortilla chips, bread and even granola and brownies. They know a good thing when they see it!

A good char intensifies the deep rich green flesh and easily releases the thin skin. Because the Hatch’s flesh is delicate, a quick tumble in the cage over flames for only 7 –10 minutes is all it takes. I let the experts roast mine every year and purchase several pounds. They freeze well and I plan to enjoy them in soups, stews and omelets for months to come.

Hatch chilies are not a seed variety but are named after the village of Hatch in southern New Mexico around which they are farmed. Considered to be the chili capital of the world, the area exports over 250,000 chilies to Texas alone! For a recent family gathering I decided to add chopped roasted hatch peppers to scalloped potatoes. The chilies complemented the sharpness of the gruyere, and the cream…enough said!

Hatch chili scalloped potatoes with baby back ribs and green beans

Layer upon layer

Hatch chilies in scalloped potatoes and gruyere cheese

8 russet potatoes, peeled, sliced crosswise as thin as possible. This is a good time to use a mandoline slicer, if you own one.

4 cups whipping cream or half-and-half

5 -6 roasted Hatch chilies (spicy or mild), peeled, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped

8 ounces gruyere cheese, coarsely grated

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Have a 9 x 13 casserole dish ready. Pour about 2 tablespoons of cream or half-and-half on the bottom of the dish and spread evenly.

Arrange potato slices evenly in a layer on the bottom of the dish. The potatoes should be touching but not overlapping each other. Sprinkle about 1 – 2 tablespoons of chilies on top of the potatoes. Sprinkle about ¼ cup of gruyere cheese on top of the chilies and potatoes. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pour about ½ cup of cream or half-and-half over cheese.

Continue layering potatoes, chilies, cheese, salt, pepper and cream. End with a layer of potatoes and then gruyere cheese. Pour the rest of the cream over the potatoes.

Heat oven to 400ºF. Cover the potatoes with foil. Bake for 1 hour.

After an hour, remove the foil. Bake for another 10 minutes or until the potatoes are soft when pricked with a fork, the cream is set and the top is nicely browned.

Remove from the oven and allow potatoes to rest for about 10 minutes.

Creamy, spicy, gooey deliciousness!

Prijatno!

Shrimp salad with avocado and radish sprouts

2010-09-01T00:19:00.001-05:00

I came across something beautiful in the grocery store that I had never seen before – radish sprouts. Easily overlooked amidst the bigger and bolder green vegetables, these lovely delicate young shoots from the daikon radish remind me of the shamrock clover. Growing happily together in high concentrations (each determined to be the tallest) a fresh bunch will surely cheer your soul!

If you love spicy radishes, you’ll love radish sprouts. Their bright green heart-shaped leaves look innocent enough, but they pack a fair amount of spice – enough to clear the sinuses! They house a significant amount of Vitamins C, B6 and A due to the fact that they are germinating seeds. Potassium is abundant, and in 5 - 6 days of rapid-fire growth the sprouts can reach 8 inches. Since a sprout is the beginning of a larger vegetable, higher levels of enzymes and photochemical compounds are present within their small bodies. The are therefore considered by many to be a ‘miracle food’.

Sprouts can be grown year round with little attention. Too delicate to be cooked, they are a brilliant addition to salads and sandwiches, wraps and spring rolls.

Bright green leaves

The tender roots barely take hold of the moist medium underneath, as lanky stems support leaf tops.

Shrimp, avocado and radish sprout salad

Serves 4 as a first course

12 Jumbo shrimp, shelled and deveined

1 cup boiled, diced potato

½ red pepper, diced

1 avocado, peeled, seeded and diced

½ cup radish sprouts

marinade and dressing (below)

a few long chive leaves or 1 tablespoon fresh chives, chopped

Marinade (and dressing)

1½ tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar

¼ cup tightly packed radish sprouts

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon sugar

salt, to taste

For the marinade and dressing:

Place all ingredients in a small food processor and blend until sprouts are finely chopped and the mixture comes together. Place shrimp in a medium bowl. Add 3 tablespoons of the sprout mixture to the shrimp. Marinate shrimp for about 20 minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. Set aside the left over mixture to be used as a dressing.

Marinate the shrimp first

Grill or broil shrimp until cooked tender, about 3 minutes on each side. Discard shrimp marinade.

You can either layer the salad in martini glasses, or in individual bowls. Layer as follows.

Bottom to top: diced potatoes, diced red pepper, a little dressing, shrimp, fresh sprouts, avocado, more dressing. Stick the chive leaves in for a dramatic presentation or chop them up and sprinkle on top of the salad.

Prijatno!

Fresh fig, gorgonzola and prosciutto salad with lemon-honey dressing

2010-08-19T13:20:00.001-05:00

Dried figs are a year round treat, but when July rolls around I get giddy with anticipation for fresh figs. Knowing my passion for figs (my blog header tells all) my dear husband gifted me with three trees that are finally producing enough of their precious fruit so that I can satisfy my craving! I’m a lucky girl! I’ve beaten the pesky birds and bugs many mornings to enjoy them fresh off the tree, standing in the shade created by their large leaves. Restraint was difficult, but restrain myself I did! I saved a batch and made fig ice cream to die for, fig chutney (recipe will come soon) and several fig-inspired salads.

If you ask me, there is no sweeter or more luscious fruit than a perfectly ripe and juicy black fig. Technically not a fruit, the fig is actually a flower that is inverted into itself The skin starts firm and green but ripens to a delicate covering for the pulp within - soft tiny flowers that house its unique nectar. The skin is actually stem tissue and the pulp is comprised of male and female flower parts with tiny sandy grains that are actually unfertilized ovaries. The fig was revered by Greek and Roman gods and considered an aphrodisiac and is likened by many a poet to female sexual organs. Lovely analogy!

Pity me that the season for fresh figs is so short! Other than their delicious taste, they provide us with numerous benefits: one cup (149g) contains 58% of the recommended daily allowance (RDA) of dietary fiber! Also, 38% of RDA of Manganese, an important enzyme activator; 29% of vitamin K for healthy blood clotting; 29% of Potassium for healthy muscles and nerves; 25% Magnesium and Calcium for strong bones, muscles and blood flow. And if you’re very active, there’s a substantial amount of natural sugar to keep you moving for a long time!

In my salad, piquant gorgonzola cheese is a perfect match for a syrupy fig. Add savory prosciutto and you have a winning trifecta!

Fresh figs are best eaten or cooked immediately, or refrigerated for a minimal time (I’d say two days max.). Since figs are so delicate once they ripen, most producers dry them before shipping around the world.

Fig, gorgonzola and prosciutto salad with Honey-lemon dressing

Adapted from a recipe by Jamie Oliver in The Best American Recipes 2003 – 2004. Serves 4

4 handfuls mixed salad greens

6 ripe fresh figs, any type

8 thin slices prosciutto or Serrano ham

8 fresh basil leaves

4 ounces gorgonzola or other blue cheese of your choice

Place the salad greens in a large bowl. Cut the stems off the figs and slice them in half lengthwise and add to the salad greens. Roll prosciutto into small tube shapes, if desired, and add to the bowl. Add the basil leaves and crumble the blue cheese on top. Drizzle generously with Honey-lemon dressing.

Honey-lemon dressing

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon honey

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine all ingredients in a glass jar and shake until well combined.

Prijatno!

Potato Salad with red peppers and mustard vinaigrette

2010-08-13T23:11:00.001-05:00

The quintessential summer meal in America must include a potato salad. No barbeque or picnic would be complete without this comfort food! There are as many versions of potato salad as there are varieties of the potato - would you believe over 5,000 with 3,000 originating in the Andes alone?

Soothing to the tongue and neutral in flavor, potatoes are a versatile starchy tuber that lend themselves to many interpretations and flavors. In Eastern Europe vinegar and oil are the preferred dressings over mayonnaise. This version has a little of each. Hot cooked new potatoes are first tossed in vinegar which allows their starch to absorb its acidity. The acidity is balanced by a thin coating of creamy mayonnaise, grainy Dijon mustard, crisp chopped red peppers and a few pungent scallions.

No peeling is necessary as this salad is made with new potatoes. Favorite daughter has a fit when she sees me peeling any variety of potato…and with good reason: much of the fiber and nutrients are housed in the potato peel which acts as a jacket to keep the nutrients inside the potato during the cooking process.

Unfortunately potatoes have received a bad rap since the emergence of low carbohydrate diets. I have recently discovered that they have enormous nutritional value and are considered by many to be one of mother nature’s whole foods. Yes, they are high in carbohydrates (21% of the recommended daily allowance - RDA), but of that percentage 26% is beneficial fiber.

Vitamins galore! Potatoes contain a variety of important vitamins and high amounts in several. Vitamin C has 48%of the RDA! Vitamin B6 46%! Niacin and Folate 21% each, Thiamin 13%, and many more. Now let’s talk minerals: Potassium 46%, Manganese 33%, Magnesium and Phosphorus 21% each, and Iron and copper 18% each. It contains no fat and because it’s a vegetable it has no cholesterol either. One portion size is 1/3 lb or one medium potato. Enjoy your potatoes so that your body can reap the benefits!

Potato Salad with red pepper and mustard vinaigrette, adapted from Gourmet Magazine, June 2002

Makes 8 - 10 servings

4 lb fingerling or new potatoes, skin left on

½ cup diced red bell pepper

2 scallions (green onions), finely sliced
1 tablespoon sugar
½ cup walnut vinegar or white-wine vinegar, divided
2/3 cup finely chopped shallots
¼ cup coarse-grained Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon mayonnaise

salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Cover potatoes with salted cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer, uncovered, until just tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain in a colander and cool slightly.

Whisk together sugar and 6 tablespoons vinegar in a large bowl until sugar is dissolved.

When potatoes are just cool enough to handle, peel and cut diagonally into 1/2-inch-thick slices if using fingerlings or cut in half if using new potatoes. Add potatoes to vinegar mixture and toss gently to combine. Add diced red pepper and scallions.

Whisk together shallot, mustard, vegetable oil, mayonnaise and remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar in a small bowl. Add dressing to potatoes, then season with salt and pepper and stir gently with a rubber spatula.

Serve immediately at room temperature or chill if serving later.

Prijatno!

Fernet Branca marinated fig ice cream

2010-07-29T16:53:00.001-05:00

With squinting eyes and a hacking cough I spat out my first gulp of Fernet-Branca. It’s a common reaction with Fernet virgins – so why didn’t the liquor salesman or the pastry chef warn me? My startled nostrils and taste buds were screaming Robitussin and Listerine. The dark brown concoction was highly medicinal with a strong dose of Pine-Sol - and nasty to put it kindly! After shelling out a pretty penny for the bottle, I realized that I should have done my homework and goggled it before I planned to use it with my small but precious harvest of figs! Just look at my blog header and you’ll understand my love of figs.

I considered trashing the bottle but local pastry chef Plinio Sandalio recently tweeted that “fernet branca makes miracles”. I’m not sure what planet he comes from (ok, I know he’s from Bolivia) but I believe he was thinking “miracles” with desserts. Upon further research I discovered that Fernet is a miracle potion for those with hangovers! It’s considered the national drink of Argentina and is wildly popular in San Francisco. I tried it with iced coke, a common mix which I found a little more palatable, but I was still thinking that I was not going to let this Fernet fool around with my beloved figs!

So who am I to question a professional chef? As you can see, I sacrificed a few figs to find out that this overzealous digestif does indeed have special powers…when used in small amounts. I found a marinade in Cooking Light magazine from San Francisco chef Luis Villavelazquez and marinated them for several days…just because I wasn’t quite sure what to do with them just yet! Eventually I decided upon fig ice cream and made a rich custard base from a recipe by ice cream wiz David Lebovitz. Rich in egg yolks and cream, the classic custard base was the perfect complement to the brazen marinade.

The result was brilliant! We were swooning with delight as we scooped spoonfuls into our mouths. It was a beautiful marriage of velvety sweet figs, rich custard, and a gentle hint of herbs and spices. A miracle!

FYI: Fernet began as a medicinal potion compounded by Bernardino Branca, a chemist in Milan. It was taken to ease stomach ailments, hangovers and cramps. The list of ingredients is incredibly long – over 40 with some still remaining a secret. Based on grapes, it also contains a sizeable portion of saffron, myrrh, mint, cardamom, aloe, mushrooms, fermented beets, coca leaf, gentian, rhubarb, wormwood, zedoary, cinchona, bay leaves, absinthe, orange peel, Echinacea, quinine, ginseng, St. John's wort, sage, galangal, peppermint oil – and the list goes on! Today it is made by fifth generation Fratelli Branca. It is aged in oak barrels for 12 months and contains over 40% alcohol. The alcohol content in the marinade prevents the ice cream from hardening rock solid. Even after a few days it remained the perfect scooping texture.

A vintage label

Fernet Branca marinated fig ice cream

Fig marinade adapted from Cooking Light, August 2010

¼ cup water

¼ cup honey

1 tablespoon Fernet Branca (a little goes a long way!)

1 teaspoon lemon juice

pinch of salt

6 fresh figs, stems removed and then quartered

Combine water, honey, Fernet Branca, lemon juice and salt in small saucepan. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Place figs in a glass container. Pour marinade over figs and cover. Refrigerate for up to 3 days - the longer the better! Keep chilled until ready to add to the Custard base.

Custard base adapted from David Lebovitz’s Vanilla Ice Cream recipe in The Perfect Scoop

1 cup (250ml) whole milk

A pinch of salt

3/4 cup (150g) sugar

2 cups (500ml) heavy cream

5 large egg yolks

Combine the milk, salt, sugar and heavy cream in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Scoop out ¼ cup milk and set aside.

Whisk the egg yolks in a medium bowl to combine. While whisking, add ¼ cup milk drop by drop to warm the eggs and prevent them from curdling. Pour the egg mixture into the milk in the saucepan and whisk continuously. Return saucepan to the heat and bring to a boil. Cook for 1 minute until it thickens slightly and then set aside to cool completely. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight until thoroughly chilled.

Freeze the custard in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions for 10 minutes. When ice cream starts to thicken, slowly add the marinade but hold back the figs. Continue to freeze in the ice cream maker (about 10 more minutes) and then add the figs. Freeze until well blended and set. Transfer to a container and freeze.

Prijatno!

Bobotie

2010-07-18T22:28:00.001-05:00

“What’s that buzzing sound?”, we asked each other within the first few minutes of the first football (soccer) match in World Cup action last month. Not to be outdone by any other nation in WC history, the spirit of native South Africa rang through vuvuzelas – the long plastic instrument evocative of kudu horns used by tribal leaders to announce meetings. The unmistakable droning sound led me to believe that a plague was imminent and the stadium was about to be attacked by a swarm of bees!

Congratulations to the country of my childhood for setting the standard for other African nations. The South African team of Bafana Bafana (“the boys” in Zulu) captivated the world by showing that they can compete on the world stage. Troubling issues in the shadows of the state-of-the-art stadiums temporarily took a back seat as the world watched the biggest event in sporting history unfold for an entire month. Who can forget Landon Donovan’s winning goal against Algeria, the drama behind Ghana’s painful loss to Uruguay in penalty kicks, and Puyol’s header that took Spain to the finals?

Sadly off-the-scale ticket prices made it impossible for many locals to attend. Horrendous refereeing – particularly during USA vs. Slovenia - and the unpredictable Jabulani ball revealed the pros and cons of technology. An extraordinary octopus named Paul predicted the outcome of all of Germany’s games and in the end favored team Spain walked off with the gold-plated trophy.

It was an interesting month for me because I had a connection to several participating countries: Serbia because it is my birthplace; USA because I am now a proud citizen; and South Africa because it provided my immigrant parents the freedom to succeed and therefore offered us kids a wonderful childhood. I spent 16 of my formative years in South Africa, oblivious of the racial tension that would erupt after our emigration.

My beautiful mother, Emilija with me (in the back) and my brother and sister, Božidar and Vesna on Durban beach

Because we rarely ‘ate out’ back then, we experienced new foods during family trips. During our holidays in Durban, we stayed at the Killarney Hotel where there was a curry dish on the menu every day. We fell in love with Indian food and were mesmerized by the brilliant spices at the Victoria Street Market. We also enjoyed Bobotie, a definitive South African dish which is believed to have originated with the Cape Malay slaves. Settlers, beginning with the Portuguese and followed by the Dutch, French, English and Indians, brought spices from their homelands and incorporated them into the local fare. The Dutch East India Company managed trade between Europe and the Far East and brought many slaves to the Cape Province from Malaysia and Indonesia. The addition of sweet components to meat dishes is common with the Malay. In Bobotie (hear bobotie pronounciation) the egg custard sets the spicy, sweet meat, crunchy almonds and plump golden raisins. It is typically finished with fresh sliced banana, grated coconut and eaten with chutney and yellow rice (plain basmati below).

Bobotie adapted from African Cooking by Laurens van der Post

Serves 6

1 slice wheat bread, broken into small pieces

1 cup milk

2 tablespoons butter

2 pounds coarsely ground lamb, beef or a combination of both

1½ cups finely chopped onions

2 tablespoons curry powder

1/2 - 1 teaspoon spicy masala (I used a home made masala brought to me from India by a friend)

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 eggs

1 medium-sized tart apple, peeled, cored and finely grated

½ cup golden raisins

¼ cup almonds, coarsely chopped

4 small fresh lemon, orange, or bay leaves

To finish: grated coconut, freshly sliced banana, chutney and basmati rice

Preheat the oven to 300º F. Combine the bread and milk in a small bowl and let the bread soak for at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a heavy 10- to 12-inch saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. When hot, add the ground meat and cook it, stirring constantly while breaking the meat up until the meat is completely cooked. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat into a deep bowl.

Discard all but about 2 tablespoons of fat from the saucepan and add the onions. Stirring frequently, cook for about 5 minutes until the onions are soft and translucent but not brown.   Add the curry powder, masala, sugar, salt and pepper, and stir for 1 or 2 minutes. Then stir in the lemon juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Pour the entire mixture on the meat.

Using your hands, squeeze the bread until the milk runs dry. Reserve the drained milk. Add the bread, 1 of the eggs, the apple, raisins, and almonds to the meat mixture. Mix with both hands until the ingredients are well combined. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, curry or masala if desired.   Transfer the meat mixture loosely into a 3-quart oven-proof dish and smooth the top with a spatula. Tuck the lemon, orange or bay leaves beneath the surface of the meat.

With a wire whisk or rotary beater, beat the remaining 2 eggs with the reserved milk for about 1 minute or until they are frothy. Slowly pour the mixture over the meat. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the custard is set and the top is light golden brown.

Lemon leaves are tucked into the meat and the custard is poured over the mixture and baked

Serve hot with yellow rice, fresh banana slices, grated coconut and chutney of your choice

Prijatno!

Grilled corn (esquite) with black beans, lime dressing and queso Cotija

2010-06-30T23:53:00.001-05:00

One of my favorite aromas is grilled sweet summer corn emanating from Hispanic food stands and taco trucks. Smoky and hot with the presence of a little char, roasted corn on the cob is becoming a common street food here in Texas as it is in Mexico. Known as elote, corn is usually roasted in its husk. When stripped but left attached at the end, the husk (also known as the shuck) becomes the handle with which one eats the corn. Slathered with mayonnaise, lime and chili powder, it is one toothsome treat!

Elote that has been cut off the cob are called esquites, and that’s what I served my delightful bunco group at my Cinco de Mayo feast this year. Served with traditional Mexican accompaniments of mayonnaise, lime juice, chili powder, cayenne pepper and Cotija cheese, I took my esquites one step further by adding black beans and scallions. It was very well received!

Roasted corn (esquites) with black beans, lime dressing and queso Cotija

4 ears corn, husks on

½ – 1 can black beans (14-oz), rinsed and drained

2 scallions, chopped

Lime dressing (see below)

1/3 cup queso Cotija (Cotija cheese), crumbled

To roast the corn: Soak corn with husks intact in cold water for 30 minutes. Drain water and pat dry. Broil or grill corn, turning every few minutes, until the husks char and corn kernels are cooked but still firm, about 12 – 18 minutes depending on the intensity of the heat. Cool and remove husks. Cut kernels off the cob and place them in a bowl.

Add black beans, scallions and lime dressing. Toss to combine and top with crumbled Cotija cheese and sprig of cilantro.

Lime dressing:

1/3 cup mayonnaise (sour cream or yogurt would be fine as well)

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice

¼ teaspoon chili powder, or a little more to taste

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon cumin

¼ teaspoon salt

Combine sour cream or mayonnaise, lime juice, chili powder, cayenne, cumin and salt in a small bowl. Set aside.

Prijatno!

Tabbouleh with mint, honeydew melon and prosciutto

2010-06-17T11:12:00.001-05:00

Whether you spell it tabbouleh, tabouleh, tabouli or even tabuli, you will love this light and fruity version! A staple in the Middle East, tabbouleh is a cold salad often found on meze plates. Tabbouleh is made with bulgur, a whole grain wheat that has been parboiled, dried, crushed and sorted by size. It is very high in fiber and protein and a perfect food for those watching their calorie intake - i.e., someone like me!

I have recently formed a Biggest Loser contest with 16 of my lovely friends with the hopes of shedding the twenty, yes 20, or so pounds that I have gained since starting my blog! The effect of sitting in front of a computer for hours on end and ingesting more calories than my typing fingers can burn has shown its ugly side. Yeast dough, chocolate ganache, and the pleasing glass of wine in hand while I cooked will be replaced by healthier options until such time as I win this thing…and that bundle of money to be awarded! (I am normally not very competitive but I seem to be showing my ugly side so let’s get back to tabbouleh…after all, this is a food blog and I have a job to do!)

With temperatures well into the 90’s here in Texas, tabbouleh is the perfect summer salad because stovetop heat is not needed to cook it. It rehydrates and softens within 30 minutes with the simple addition of cold water. Available in most grocery stores, bulgur comes in different sizes and ‘fine’ (#1) bulgur is the choice for tabbouleh.

My garden is about to be overtaken by mint and I have been thinking of ways to use it in the kitchen. Here it replaces parsley, the traditional herb of choice in tabbouleh. I have never been a fan of cucumbers so they’ve been tossed for flavorful honeydew melon…and since melon and prosciutto go hand-in-hand I guarantee that you will love a few thin slices with the salad.

You may be questioning my choice of honeydew melon over one with less sugar (cantaloupe). A girl’s got to get her vitamins and honeydew melon is very high in vitamin C and potassium. Surprisingly, it’s high water content results in only 60 calories per cup!

Tabbouleh with mint, honeydew melon and prosciutto

Adapted from Gourmet, July 2006. Original recipe by Melissa Roberts-Matar

1 cup cold water
¾ cup fine bulgur (5 oz)
1½ cups loosely packed fresh mint leaves
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lime or lemon juice
1½ cups diced firm, ripe honeydew melon
½ cup finely chopped red onion
½ teaspoon salt

¼ pound thinly sliced prosciutto

Pour water over bulgur in a bowl. Let stand for 30 minutes. Drain in a sieve if there is water at the bottom of the bowl.

Place mint, oil and lime or lemon juice in a blender or food processor. Blend until the mint is finely chopped but still has some distinguishable pieces.

Toss bulgur with mint mixture, honeydew, onion, and salt. Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving.

Serve with prosciutto. Serves 4.

Prijatno!

Onion Jam

2010-06-09T16:42:00.001-05:00

I have always loved the taste of jams and preserves. What can be better than fruit cooked with a healthy dose of sugar? A picky eater as a youngster -- oh, how things have changed -- bread, butter and jam kept this overactive, skinny little girl happy. Peanut butter and jelly was an unheard-of combination in South Africa so my sandwiches were filled with salted butter and exotic berry jams, apricot, plum or my all-time favorite fig.

I still enjoy my jam and butter but it’s more likely to be on a single piece of toast since the calories add up a lot quicker now :( With the increase in availability of a wide variety of cheeses from all over the world and locally by our very own artisans (try Blue Heron Farm), a new way of enjoying preserves has emerged. Chunky preserves can complement a pungent, rich cheese with its texture and sweetness; fig jam is a perfect partner to tangy goat cheese.

A mind-boggling array of delicious savory jams has emerged in recent years. Chipotle peppers cannned with peaches or raspberries, ginger with figs, and blueberries with garlic are just a few that come to mind. Here’s the simple recipe for Onion jam that I served with Walnut bread and Humboldt Fog chèvre (goat cheese) as seen in my previous post. When cooked slowly, the onions are allowed to absorb the sugar, soy sauce, wine and vinegar. Once the water in the liquids has evaporated the mixture becomes thick, jammy and complex in flavor…sweet, salty, a tad sour…umami... and perfect with chèvre.

This savory jam would also be an outstanding accompaniment to a roast beef or turkey sandwich. It would be delicious with a freshly grilled steak or on a vegetable pizza. The thought of it mingling with melting queso in a quesadilla makes my mouth water!. Get creative with it…it’s worth the 45 minutes or so of stirring!

Onion Jam from the Mustards Grill Napa Valley Cookbook

Makes about 1 cup

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 cups sliced onions; I have used both yellow and red

2 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon soy sauce

1 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons red wine

2 tablespoons water

Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 5 - 8 minutes until tender and translucent. Add the sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 - 20 minutes, until onions are golden brown. Add the remaining ingredients and cook, stirring often to avoid scorching, for about 20 minutes, until the mixture is thick and jam like. Taste and adjust for salt, if necessary. The slower you cook it, the richer the jam will become. Store tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Prijatno!

Walnut bread with Humboldt Fog goat cheese and Onion jam

2010-06-02T11:15:00.001-05:00

My love for goat cheese (chèvre) is no secret. I am an afflicted turophile! It’s a new word for me and probably for you as well, dear reader. It comes from the Greek tyros ‘cheese’ and philos ‘love’ and was first used by the English in the 1930s. Rarely used today, it also means ‘connoisseur of cheese’. Aside from being a dedicated turophile, I also spend way too much time on the internet where I came across an alternative/rock band based in Toledo, Ohio named Turophilie, that claims to have “no tolerance for the lactose intolerant”! I listened to a couple of songs on their playlist and quite like their sound. Interesting stuff one comes across on the internet!

Back to chèvre…Hubby and I hosted a wine dinner recently with goat cheese or goat's milk in every single course. For starters, and with the help of my accomplished wine group members, I managed to pack eight delicious tidbits on two appetizer plates. Each of the items varied in texture, flavor and color and presented a feast for the eyes!

Warm appetizer plate

Tartelettes with chèvre, red peppers and caramelized red onions

Creamy Mediterranean chèvre polenta with scallops on a half shell

Dates stuffed with chèvre wrapped in bacon

Roasted beet and chèvre tower with pistachios

Cold appetizer plate

Humboldt Fog on homemade walnut bread

Terrine of chèvre with zucchini and roasted red, orange and yellow peppers

Chèvre crème brulee with turbinado crust

Melon salad with chèvre feta and sherry vinegar dressing

Chèvre overkill, you say? It can never happen in my world, but it was a definite challenge for Hubby in the wine pairing department. Since a few members of our group tend to steamroll toward the reds, we had to remind them that goat cheese loves to be courted by champagne, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. I managed to sneak some chèvre into the spinach and pine nut ‘cigars’ that accompanied the main course of grilled lamb chops with celery root and Yukon gold puree and sautéed mushrooms. We drank a few Chateauneuf-du-Pape reds and everyone was very happy. Homemade Vanilla bean goat’s milk ice cream topped individual apple tarts for dessert and we were ecstatic!

In my ‘humboldt’ opinion, Humboldt Fog chèvre rivals the best the French can produce. Made in California by Cypress Grove Chèvre, it is the epitome of American made cheese. It’s firm and chalky, thick and creamy, with an unmistakable tang derived from the acids unique to goat’s milk. The rind is edible, as well as the delicate layer of ash that runs through the middle of the cheese, giving it a pretty layer-cake look. Best at room temperature, the outer layer oozes creamy-rich decadence seen in the picture at the end of this post.

A nice complement to the chèvre is bread made with walnuts and shallots. The soft rich cream in the cheese contrasts with a hint of onion and crunchy nuts. It’s also great with Onion Jam, a recipe I’ll share in the next few days. Here’s the bread…on bright red!

Walnut bread

Adapted from The Cheese Course by Janet Fletcher

Makes one 8-inch round loaf

1 cup walnuts

¼ ounce package active dry yeast, or 2½ teaspoons instant yeast

1/3 cup warm water (110ºF to 115ºF)

1 cup milk

1/3 cup unsalted butter, cut up into chunks

about 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup whole-wheat flour

2 teaspoons salt

1/3 cup minced shallots

2 tablespoons cornmeal

1 pound Humboldt Fog cheese

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Toast walnuts on a baking sheet until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 15 minutes. Let cool and then chop coarsely.

In a small bowl sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and let stand for 2 minutes to soften. Stir to dissolve and allow to sit for about 5 – 10 minutes, or until fine bubbles form on the surface. This means that the yeast is active and you have just ‘proofed’ it.

Heat the milk and butter in a small saucepan until butter is melted. Set aside to cool to about 110ºF.

In a large bowl, stir together 1¾ cups of the all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour and salt. Add the active (proofed) yeast, milk and butter mixture, shallots and walnuts. Stir until well blended. Add more all-purpose flour gradually, stirring until the dough becomes too stiff to stir. Turn out onto a lightly floured board and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes, adding more flour as necessary.

Shape the dough into a ball and transfer to a large greased bowl (I use about 1 tablespoon olive oil). Turn the dough over to coat the entire surface with oil. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise until doubled, about 1½ hours. Punch the dough down and transfer to a lightly floured work surface. Reshape into a ball and transfer to a baking sheet dusted with the cornmeal. Cover with the towel and let rise until doubled, about 1½ hours.

Preheat oven to 425ºF. Put a baking dish with ice water on the floor of the oven to create steam. Slash the loaf a couple of times, and then bake for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 325ºF, remove the water from the oven and continue to bake bread until it is well browned, about 30 minutes more. Let cool on rack before slicing. Serve with sliced Humboldt Fog cheese and Onion Jam.

I am submitting this recipe to YeastSpotting, a weekly review of yeast-driven food. Check the link for some wonderful recipes!

Prijatno!

Tuna Puri wins 2nd place at the Tournament de Tuna!

2010-05-25T00:21:00.001-05:00

I travelled the world in my mind with ideas for a winning combination of flavors that would wow the judges during Saturday’s Tournament de Tuna. I bounced from Portugal to Spain, Northern Africa to Greece, and I finally settled way out east in India!

Featuring canned Portuguese tuna, Queen of the Coast was introducing its products to the USA. The Queen herself made a graceful appearance.

It was an intimate affair – six eager contestants butting into each other in the home kitchen as we plated our promising dishes. From left to right: Todd Romero, Chantal Duvall, yours truly, Joni Buck, and Holly Erickson watched Jenn Molholt win with her tasty Baked tuna fritter with spicy/tangy tomato relish and avocado. It was crispy on the outside, perfectly tender on the inside and delicious!

After much hype on Facebook, the romantic and adventurous Raphael made his grand appearance, fresh off his seafaring boat. He was very handsome, charming and gracious, even when Chantal planted a big red kiss! His accent made my legs buckle…and it looked like he was enjoying my Tuna puri!

Pani puri is an Indian snack (chaat) found in street food carts. A foodie friend, Jay recently introduced me to a great vegetarian restaurant in Houston called Shiv Sagar. Their dosas are excellent and that’s where I spotted the delicate pani puri. (Thanks Jay for steering me away from making dosas, oy!) I picked the soft-spoken restaurant owner’s brain for information and ideas for pani puri and eventually bought a package. They had potential - small, hollow, crispy fried breads are the vessels for spiced vegetables and sauces. In order to incorporate the canned tuna, I checked with my Indian connection and knowledgeable friend, Manjula.

A vegetarian herself, Manjula described the various sauces I should use and assured me that tuna would fit right in. Her mother’s own garam masala and a fair amount of chopped onions contributed greatly to the richness of the filling. Willing taste-tester and an excellent cook herself, my neighbor Cheryl stated that the sweetness of the yoghurt sauce balanced the spiciness of the serrano chiles in the green sauce. The sauces – one sweet, one sour, and one spicy; and a variety of crunchy and leafy garnishes created a complete flavor and textural sensation.

This was my presentation. A shot of Mango lassi completed the plate.

Thanks to Karen, Dwight, Joan and Amber at Soundworks for hosting the fun-filled affair and giving us amateur cooks an opportunity to experiment and revel in each other’s company. Judges Brandy Graesser of Hubbell and Hudson Viking Cooking School, food marketing wiz George Darsey, and Raphael himself made positive comments and I walked off with a fantastic prize – cooking lessons at the Viking Cooking School, perfect for someone who’s always willing to experiment in the kitchen!

Yours truly, Jenn, Raphael, Holly and the Queen of the Coast

Now to the recipe! Start with paper-thin Pani Puri (these are made by Satyam Foods & Snacks, Inc.), and thin, crunchy sev, a vermicelli-like snack made with chick pea (gram) flour.

Here’s the filling…simple ingredients deliciously seasoned with garam masala and black mustard seeds.

To make a hole for the filling, tap the top of one side of each puri with the back of a spoon, and then fill it with the tuna mixture. Drizzle with Spicy green chutney, Dahi, pomegranate molasses and top with sev, chives, tomato and cilantro. Pop the entire puri in your mouth for a blast of savory, sweet, sour and spicy heaven!

Tuna Puri Please note that this recipe looks more complicated than it is! You can substitute store-bought Spicy Cilantro Chutney and the rest of the components are very simple to assemble.

One bag (7.4 oz) Pani Puri (small, fried and hollow Indian breads, available at all Indian grocers)

Tuna and Chick Pea filling

1 – 2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup finely diced onion

1 – 2 teaspoons garam masala (a spice mixture available at all Indian grocers)

½ teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 cup diced fresh tomatoes, seeds removed

3 cans (6 oz/170g each) Queen of the Coast Tuna Salad with Chick Peas, or 5 oz canned tuna in oil plus 11 oz cooked chick peas

salt, to taste

In a medium saucepan, heat olive oil. Add onion and sauté for 5 minutes until beginning to soften but not brown. Add garam masala and mustard seeds and cook for 1 minute. Add tomatoes and sauté for 1 more minute. Add canned Tuna Salad with Chick Peas and stir gently until heated through. Season with salt, if necessary.

Spicy Cilantro Chutney ( substitute with store-bought chutney, if you wish)

3 green chiles such as serrano or jalapeno, stemmed and seeded

¾-inch piece peeled fresh ginger

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon oil

¼ cup water

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon sugar or jaggery (palm sugar)

1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted

1 bunch cilantro (about 5 ounces) less about 6 stems- reserve for garnish

Place all ingredients except for the cilantro in a blender. Pulse until combined and finely chopped. Add cilantro and blend until smooth. Season with additional salt if necessary.

Dahi (sweetened yoghurt)

1 cup plain yoghurt

1 tablespoon sugar or jaggery (palm sugar)

½ teaspoon pomegranate molasses

pinch of salt

Whisk yoghurt, sugar, pomegranate and salt to blend. Adjust to taste.

For the garnish:

½ cup sev, a fried vermicelli-like snack made with gram (chick pea) flour (available at all Indian grocers)

pomegranate molasses or sweet tamarind chutney (available at all Indian grocers)

¼ cup finely sliced scallions or chives

½ cup chopped fresh tomato

leaves from about 6 stems cilantro (reserved from Spicy Cilantro Chutney), finely chopped

To assemble Pani Puri

Carefully make a hole on one side of each pani puri. Fill each one about ¾ to the top with warm Tuna and Chick Pea filling. Arrange pani puri on a serving platter. Drizzle with Spicy Cilantro Chutney, Dahi, and garnishes (sev, pomegranate molasses, scallions, tomato and chopped cilantro). Serve with a shot of Mango Lassi to cool the palate!

Mango lassi

2 cups plain yoghurt

2 mangoes, peeled and chopped, or 2 cups frozen mango cubes

¼ cup milk

toasted and ground pistachio nuts and a slice of fresh mango for decoration

Blend yoghurt, mangoes and milk in a blender. Pour into glasses and sprinkle with chopped pistachio nuts. Serve cold.

Mango lassi – refreshing and not too sweet!

Click on the link for more pictures of the Tournament de Tuna.

This post is my entry to the Magic Bullet To Go Giveaway, for which you can find details @ Fun and Food Cafe. You could win a Magic Bullet Food processor! It’s easy!

Prijatno!

Queen of the Coast Tuna

2010-05-19T01:38:00.001-05:00

I have entered a cooking contest! My first one ever! What was I thinking?

I’m nervous! I’ve cooked and baked for parties and family through the years and accepted their compliments and gentle criticisms, but I’ve never had my food judged by strangers before. We’ll see if I have the thick skin necessary to accept any negative feedback! What if they can’t stand my plate? What if the presentation falls apart at the last minute? I keep on trying to remind myself that it’s all in the name of fun, but as you can tell…I have real issues, unlike the serene beauty above!

I will participate in the Tournament de Tuna on Saturday! It’s a means of introducing Queen of the Coast Tuna to the US. Imported from Portugal by LaRuche Imports, Inc., the tuna comes canned in water or oil, or as ready-to-eat salads with either chickpeas; peas and carrots; black-eyed peas; and red beans and sweet corn. All packed in easy-to-open cans, these salads stand alone as delicious and healthy meals.

I am using the Tuna Salad with Chick Peas in my dish. My mind is spinning with ideas and ingredients – I haven’t bought canned tuna in years because we have been enjoying the benefits of fresh tuna. Do I play it safe with a Mediterranean dish? Do I add a twist with Mexican flavors, Moroccan, Caribbean spices or how about a little Asian ginger and lemongrass? As you can see, I’m all over the map but I’m narrowing it down slowly. I can’t tell you what it will be…there are competitors lurking on this site, you know.

Karen, Joan and Amber at Soundworks have been a lot of fun as they have encouraged my friend Chantal and me along the way. And there’s an added bonus – we will meet the mysterious and unabashedly handsome Raphael, lover of women, romance, tuna and the sea! Follow the hype on facebook and enter the contest for a chance to win a trip to Portugal.

And most of all - WISH ME LUCK!!!

Prijatno!

Strawberry and blackberry shortcakes with Grand Marnier whipped cream

2010-05-11T01:01:00.001-05:00

It’s finally berry season and these strawberry and blackberry shortcakes went over very well at a meeting with my foodie friends at a backyard barbeque recently. Slightly sweet and very tender, these shortcakes are a cinch to make. Similar to scones and Southern biscuits, shortcakes contain a ‘healthy’ dose of shortening (or my preferred butter) which creates a “short” and delicate crumb. Filled with lightly sweetened whipped cream and a combination of fresh summer berries soaked in a little bit of orange decadence (aka Grand Marnier), this dessert prettily announces the beginning of Summer.

As wonderful as all berries are, I had a major run-in with them in Oregon during a wine-tasting trip in the Willamette Valley. It was late September and much to my delight I found the country roads surrounding our Bed and Breakfast lined with enormous wild blackberry bushes - hundreds of them – loaded with thousands upon thousands of blackberries at different stages of ripening! These impressive, sometimes 12-foot tall plants use boundary fences and posts as support for their thorny, entangled canes. They provide a wonderful feast for the birds for several months and I was astounded that so many perfectly ripe and sweet berries were left to rot. I couldn’t wait to get my mitts on them!

Fearless of the possibility of snakes which make the bushes their habitat, I dove in and moved from branch to branch and ate more than I was putting into my Ziploc. I was not intimidated! I conquered! Unable to pace myself midst such glorious fruit, I became an uncontrollable glutton. Here was my chance to load up for free on vitamin C, vitamin K, manganese, fiber, and oh yeah…I forgot…sugar!

It was a morning (and sometimes evening) ritual, with a healthy dose of wine-tasting in between (I know…more sugar). I had totally ignored the warnings of my friend Ralph, who predicted my affliction. In a couple of days my mouth was reeling from a serious overgrowth of yeast. Generously fueled by my greed and the sharp increase in sugar, I had a veritable bloom of yeast buds splurging in my mouth. It was not a pleasant feeling and nothing short of a drastic change in diet and a few pills would stop it.

But don’t let me stop you from enjoying these shortcakes with berries…in moderation of course! Our group is planning a wine-tasting trip to Washington state this fall...

Strawberry and blackberry shortcakes with Grand Marnier whipped cream

Makes about 10 – 16 shortcakes. Adapted from Baking From My Home to Yours by Dorie Greenspan

3½ cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons baking powder

¾ teaspoons salt

6 tablespoons sugar

1½ sticks (12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter), cut into small chunks

1½ cups cold heavy cream

Center a rack in middle of oven. Preheat oven to 425ºF. Line a large baking sheet with a silpat or parchment paper.

Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar together in a large bowl. Add the chunks of butter and quickly work it in the flour with your hands or a pastry cutter until the butter is the size of small peas.

Pour the cream over the mixture and mix it gently with a fork until the dough is just combined but there is still flour on the bottom of the bowl. Use your hands to form a rough ball but don’t overwork the dough or it may become tough.

Dump the dough onto a lightly floured surface and roll it out with a rolling pin to about ¾-inch thickness. Using a 2-inch or 3-inch cookie cutter, cut circles out and place on prepared baking sheet about 2 inches apart. Collect the scraps, re-roll and cut more dough circles. Bake for 15 - 18 minutes, turning the cooking sheet around about half way through the baking time. When the shortcakes are light golden brown, remove them from the oven and transfer them to a rack to cool.

When ready to serve, slice each shortcake horizontally in half. Place the bottom half on a serving plate and top with a couple of spoonfuls of the berries and whipped cream. Top with remaining half of shortcake and dust with confectioner’s sugar.

Strawberries and blackberries in Grand Marnier

2 lbs strawberries and blackberries (the proportion is up to you)

¼ cup sugar

2 tablespoons Grand Marnier

Wash berries and place on clean kitchen towel to dry. Hull strawberries and then slice them into thirds. Transfer strawberries and blackberries to a bowl. Add sugar and Grand Marnier and mix gently. Set aside to macerate for about an hour.

Grand Marnier whipped cream

2 cups heavy whipping cream

2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

1 teaspoon orange zest

Whip cream and sugar in a bowl until it begins to thicken. Add Grand Marnier, vanilla essence and orange zest. Whip carefully until it’s thick.

Prijatno!

Baby bella mushroom tart

2010-04-22T01:32:00.001-05:00

In Italy, France, eastern Europe and Russia, foraging for mushrooms in the spring and fall is a national pastime. You know that the season is under way when neighbors behave strangely - avoiding eye-contact while discreetly wandering in the direction of the woods and emerging casually with a bounty neatly tucked out of sight in coat pockets! Similarly, when you see cars parked in disarray on the side of the road, you can be pretty sure that scavengers are secretly searching for mushrooms in the damp woodland areas nearby. Secrecy and protection of the fruitful sites are carried through generations, and it is rude to ask where where the mushrooms were found.

There is a magical quality to mushrooms. I am always amazed at their instant appearance on my lawn after a rainy spell. But because I’m mycophobic (like most of us in America) when surprised by mushrooms that have the potential of being poisonous, I don’t venture to even touch them, let alone consider eating them! In Europe the attitude is decidedly mycophilic and children are taught to identify the edible from the poisonous at an early age. If you are in France and there is any doubt in your mind, you can conveniently take your harvest to a pharmacist - they are all trained to identify them.

During our stay at the amazing Villa Ferraia in Tuscany, my wine group and I were treated to an afternoon of foraging in the cool, humid woods. Amateurs at best, we were accompanied by an expert woodsman who spoke not a word of English and nodded ‘yes’, and ‘no’ to our findings. Stefano is the culinary director at the Villa. Here’s his find – a huge portobello! Mushrooms flourish in humus, the decaying vegetation found on moist soil around trees and under brush.

We were very fortunate to find a few ovoli mushrooms that day! In researching for the name of this bright orange mushroom, I discovered that they are very rare. They have brilliant orange caps and white stems and are very expensive to buy if you are lucky enough to find them at market.

Always eaten raw, they were sliced thinly and wonderful paired with a local Chianti.

Mushrooms can be called the ‘meaty’ vegetable because of their high protein content. They can easily replace meat to balance a meal. In this mushroom tart, I use dried porcini mushrooms and young portobello mushrooms, also known as ‘baby bellas’. A little brandy and salty parmesan to the mix enhance the earthiness of this hearty tart.

Baby bella mushroom tart

Adapted from the Torta Salata recipe in Bologna Mia by Loretta Paganini. Serves 8

Tart dough

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sea salt

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed in 1” pieces and chilled

2 egg yolks

5 tablespoons ice water

Filling

¼ cup dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes (reserve water after draining)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small red onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 20 oz packages Baby Bella mushrooms, brushed clean of any dirt, stems removed and thinly sliced

¼ cup brandy

1 - 1½ teaspoons sea salt (to taste)

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

2 large eggs

1 cup whipping cream

½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

pinch of freshly ground nutmeg

1/3 cup parmesan cheese, grated

To make the tart dough: Place flour, salt and butter in food processor (or bowl). Pulse (or work quickly with your hands) until the butter is the size of peas. Add egg yolks and ice water and pulse until the mixture forms a mass. If it’s still dry, add more water, one teaspoon at a time. Shape into a flattened ball and wrap in plastic or foil and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Butter a 9” tart pan with a removable bottom. Sprinkle lightly with flour. On a floured counter, roll out the dough to about an 11” circle. Carefully transfer the dough to the tart pan. Pat the dough so that it is snug in the bottom and sides of tart pan and trim the excess from the edge of the pan. Prick the bottom at 1” intervals with the tines of a fork. Chill while you prepare the filling.

To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 400ºF. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the onions, garlic, mushrooms and drained porcini mushrooms. Sauté over high heat for about 10 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to soften. Add the brandy and porcini water and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes and the mixture begins to dry out. Add salt, black pepper, red pepper flakes and parsley and combine. Remove from heat and allow the mixture to cool.

In a small bowl, whisk the eggs, cream, white pepper, nutmeg and parmesan cheese until combined. Add to the cooled mushroom mixture and mix well. Pour the filling into the prepared crust and bake for 35 – 40 minutes, or until deep golden brown on the top.

Cool on a rack and serve warm or at room temperature.

Prijatno!

Sautéed fresh garbanzo beans

2010-04-08T22:01:00.001-05:00

If you blink at the wrong time during early spring, you may miss the fleeting presence of fresh garbanzo beans, still in their small, fuzzy green pods. Also known as chickpeas, ceci beans, Indian peas, Bengal gram and Kabuli chana, we are much more familiar in the US with garbanzos in canned or dried forms before they become the key ingredient in hummus, falafel, Indian vegetarian curries and Italian salads.

I first spied fresh garbanzos as recently as last year. Popping the beans out of their pods and savoring their green, sweet, and slightly nutty essence transported me far from the hectic, crowded city to a spacious country porch, a rocking chair and visions of me shelling garbanzos…I was well on my way to eating the entire bag by the time I arrived home! Similar to green pea pods but smaller, their shells are thinner, hairy and paper-like. One or two peas occupy each pod. This picture shows how they are sold at markets in Mexico - fresh pods still attached to their branches. The leaves are used to make sun tea and the branches are fed to the burros! In the US you will pay a little more since you’re only buying the pods. If you a lucky enough to come across some at your market or grocery store, grab some!

This is how I found them

Sadly, most of the crops in California support the dried garbanzo market. Hopefully, with more families embracing a farm-to-table approach to their diets, these wonderful legumes will become a seasonal staple . I recently read about a California farmer and his support of his Hispanic foreman’s “agricultural fantasy” - selling fresh garbanzos to “Gringos”! When they introduced them at a market in San Francisco, Hispanic women delighted in the fresh crop, while the “Gringas” were not so easily charmed, especially put off by the chilling thought of, heaven forbid, shelling the beans themselves!!! (Link to the entire article). For people as particular as they are, sautéing them in their shells as I did below saves shelling time and they can be eaten like edamame – each person shelling his or her own.

In Mexico and from the Eastern Mediterranean to India, fresh garbanzos are eaten raw as well as cooked, and in many areas they are considered the poor man’s protein. Aside from being high in protein, these nutritious little gems are also high in fiber and potassium . My recent batch made it home with only a few beans eaten! I decided to process them minimally so that they retain some of the raw “green” nutty taste that I hunger for. A quick sauté did the trick for me, but you could also toss the pods in a little bit of olive oil and roast them at 425F for 25 – 30 minutes for a creamier texture.

Heat a little bit of olive oil in a pan. Carefully add the fresh garbanzo beans. They will quickly begin jumping like popping corn!

When the shells are charred on both sides, sprinkle with chile powder, cayenne pepper and kosher salt, to taste. Finish with a squeeze of fresh lime juice.

This simple snack is my entry to Magic Bullet To Go Giveaway, for which you can find details @ Fun and Food Cafe. You could win a Magic Bullet Food processor! It’s easy!

Prijatno!

Easter Babka

2010-04-04T15:04:00.001-05:00

This magnificent babka is a traditional Polish Easter bread that I made for my best friend’s annual Easter celebration. Standing six inches tall, it is a slightly sweet yeast cake dotted with rum-soaked golden raisins and topped with a sweet lime glaze. Rich in flavor thanks to 10 egg yolks, 2 whole eggs and melted butter, this babka is a fine way to break the Lenten fast!

Babka is the Northern Slavic word for “little grandmother”. The bread is baked in a special pan that shapes the babka to emulate a full skirt covering the ample hips of a typical Eastern European grandmother. The pan has ridges and curves suggesting the pleats and flowers of the fabric. Unfortunately I don’t own a babka pan, so my large angel food cake pan became an acceptable stand-in.

Thanks, Dorota for allowing me to make your babka this year! Your Easter feasts are well-known and always a joy.

Babka (adapted from Valinda’s recipe on Allrecipes)

1/3 cup rum, optional – if you want to soak the raisins*

3/4 cup golden raisins

1 cup milk or half-and-half

1/2 cup water

1 tablespoon sugar

2 1/2 (.25 ounce) packages active dry yeast

2 eggs, room temperature

10 egg yolks, room temperature

3/4 cup unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), melted and cooled but still warm

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 teaspoons lime zest

6 1/3 cup all-purpose flour, plus about 1 cup more for kneading

*If you want the raisins to be plump and delicious, soak them in the rum the night before or at least 2 hours before you start the recipe.

Warm the milk, water and sugar until it reaches 110F (45C).    Add yeast and set aside for about 5 minutes.   Lightly oil a large bowl and set aside.   Drain raisins and enjoy the rum while you bake!

Stir 2 eggs, egg yolks, butter, vanilla and lemon rind in a large bowl of a mixer.   Using the paddle attachment, mix in yeast mixture and raisins and beat well.   When a loose dough has formed, turn out onto a well-floured floured surface and knead until smooth, about 10 minutes, using the extra 1 cup of flour if necessary.   Place the dough in the oiled bowl and turn to coat on all sides with the oil.   Cover with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 45 minutes.   Deflate the dough by punching it down and folding it over onto itself about 4 times.   Let rise again until doubled in volume, about 30 minutes.

Grease a babka pan or a large angel food cake pan. Deflate the dough again and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface.   Shape it into a fat cylinder. Place it into the babka or cake pan and fold over the ends.   Smooth the top with your hands until the dough is evenly dispersed.   Cover the pan with a damp cloth and let the dough rise until tripled in volume, about 40 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375F (190C).

Bake in preheated oven 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325F (165C) and bake for 30 minutes more. Reduce oven temperature to 275F (135C) and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, until golden brown.   Let babka stand 5 to 10 minutes before removing from pan and cooling on a rack.

The Icing

2 cups confectioner’s sugar

2 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon lime zest

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 teaspoon vanilla

Mix above ingredients together. Add more milk or sugar to achieve a pouring consistency. Pour over the warm babka.

Peace and joy as we celebrate our Lord’s resurrection today!

Hristos voskrese!

Prijatno!

Avocado and poblano pepper omelette

2010-03-25T14:28:00.001-05:00

Everyone knows that I’m a huge fan of avocados, so much so that I have even experimented with it in a cheesecake! Sunny South Africa, where I spent my formative years, was abundant with many varieties of fruits and vegetables and amongst them was the wonderful avocado. My parents, young immigrants from the former Yugoslavia, had never seen an avocado, paw paw (papaya), granadilla (passion fruit) or guava before and gradually incorporated these nutritious and heavenly fruits into our diets (mom’s fruit salads were always the best!). My father, upon his first taste of the avocado, deemed it needed salt and pepper, and from then on, my mother made sandwiches with mashed avocado, salt and pepper and they were simple but very tasty. A wholesome food such as the avocado doesn’t need much primping, according to mama! I still enjoy these sandwiches and the memories they evoke.

A long time staple of the middle Americas (earliest evidence of it is from 10,000 BC!), the avocado tree is native to the tropics. The mild-flavored flesh is almost always consumed raw in salsas, dips and salads. High in monosaturated fats (the best kind) and potassium (the mineral that keeps those pesky leg cramps at bay!), the avocado is also a factor in reducing cholesterol and consistently appears at the top of many healthy food lists.

I try to incorporate it in our salads, sandwiches, tacos and another salad, and now, in a delicious omelette. The buttery, rich texture of the avocado lends itself well to this preparation. As it warms, its subtle flavor and creamy texture contrast with its surroundings - bold onions, sweet red peppers and spicy poblano. I highly recommend it!

The headliners…chopped cilantro, red onion, jalapeno, red pepper, poblano pepper, green onions and avocado:

Sauté the vegetables in a pan. When they are starting to soften, pour the beaten eggs over them and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste

Using a wooden spoon or a spatula, push the egg mixture from the edges inward and tilt the pan so that the runny raw egg from the middle falls onto the pan and starts to cook. Cover half of the egg mixture with the cheese of your choice and the avocados, and then flip the exposed end over to enclose them.

Avocado omelette

For 2 very generous portions (we like our eggs, what can I say!)

¼ red onion, chopped finely

1 jalapeno, seeded and chopped finely

1/3 red bell pepper, chopped finely

1 green onion, thinly sliced

¼ cup chopped cilantro

4 eggs, beaten

salt and pepper, to taste

½ avocado, seeded, peeled and cubed

2 slices provolone cheese, mozzarella, feta, chevre, cream cheese, or whatever cheese you fancy that would melt quickly

Have all of the above ingredients prepared before you begin to cook the omelette. Over medium heat, heat about a tablespoon of olive oil in a saucepan. Add the onion, jalapeno, red bell and sauté for about 3 minutes. Add the green onions and cilantro and cook for about 2 more minutes. Spread the vegetables out evenly in the pan.

Pour the beaten eggs over the vegetables evenly. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Let eggs cook for about a minute or two (the edges will be cooked but the top will still be raw). Using a wooden spoon or a spatula, push the egg mixture from the edges inward and tilt the pan so that the runny raw egg from the middle falls onto the pan and starts to cook. Cover half of the egg mixture with the cheese of your choice and the avocados, and then flip the exposed end over to enclose them. Remove from heat and cover with a lid. Allow to sit for about 5 minutes so that the cheese melts and the avocado warms.

Crispy egg, spicy peppers, gooey cheese and warm avocado makes for a delicious breakfast!

Prijatno!

Sarma (cabbage rolls)

2010-03-13T22:24:00.001-06:00

If you are of Eastern European heritage, one of your favorite winter meals is bound to be sarma. Sarma varies from region to region and family to family, but the basic ingredients are meat wrapped in fermented cabbage leaves and flavored with smoked pork. It is made with ingredients taken from the food that was prepared for the long cold winters – known as zimnica in Serbia. It has become the comfort food my family longs for at the beginning of winter. It is the comfort food that my extended family and friends share at our Orthodox Christmas and other gatherings.

Kiseli kupus (sauerkraut) is the key to authentic sarma and can be easily made at home. Even during our milder Texas winters, my father has had much success with the process. People have been fermenting cabbage leaves since ancient times. In remote villages it was a way to preserve food during the cold winter months when fresh vegetables were not readily available. For my parents, homemade kiseli kupus is superior to the store-bought product and it’s the only sauerkraut they use for their sarma. It’s a wonderful sight to see the pride in my father’s face when he offers his sauerkraut and smoked pork ribs and neck for sarma.

My college-age kids requested sarma at the same time a local food critic asked me for the recipe. My mother follows no written recipe, only the knowledge that it is best made with fermented cabbage leaves, lean meat with a little bit of rice, a generous amount of freshly ground pepper and sweet paprika, and smoked pork to add a depth of flavor to the clear broth. Tomatoes are not part of mama’s sarma as she believes the acidity in the tomatoes would mask the distinctive flavors of the sauerkraut and smoked pork.

We spent a wonderful morning together, mama and me. We cooked and I measured each ingredient as we progressed, and when the sarma was ready, it was packaged and ready to be delivered to my kids who love their Serbian heritage and sarma!

First, you get your human pepper grinder to work. You need lots of freshly ground black pepper. Here is our sauerkrautier and meat smoker par excellence - my dad!

Smoked pork neck (left) goes in the filling, and the ribs flavor the sauce. It’s important to have ample amounts of Turkish coffee on hand when making sarma:

Smoked pork ribs flavor the sarma and broth. When these cook for 3-4 hours, the meat is very tender and falls off the bone. You can trim the thick skin if you wish, but remember that a lot of flavor is in the fat.

Fermented cabbage leaves, rinsed and draining:

To roll each sarma, cup the leaf in the palm of your hand. Fill with about 3 tablespoons of the meat mixture:

Fold one side over without straightening the ends:

Then the opposite side, but don’t straighten it at the end:

Fold the thick end over and roll:

Keep on rolling!

When you get to the end, tuck the ends into the sides created by rolling. This way, the sarma won’t unravel as easily.

Stack them as you go, the largest ones in one pile, medium in another, and small in a third pile:

In your biggest soup pot, cover the bottom with a layer of the leaf rejects. Arrange the largest sarme (plural) in a snug fashion:

When you’ve reached the top, nestle in about 6 smoked ribs:

Fill the pot with water but don’t cover the top layer. Sprinkle with lots of paprika.

Cover the top layer of sarme with more of the leaf rejects. Cover with the lid and simmer for 3-4 hours.

Sarma

Makes 78 sarme (plural)

3 large onions, finely diced

canola or olive oil

6 oz smoked pork, diced. Pork neck is the best – see picture of the smoked meat.

5 lbs ground beef (about 92% lean)

2 tablespoons salt

1½ cups long grain rice

½ cup ‘sweet’ ground paprika, plus more for sprinkling the top

3 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

78 fermented cabbage leaves (recipe below, or you can purchase them at your local imported goods store)

About 6 smoked pork ribs

On medium heat, sauté diced onions in a little canola or olive oil until they are soft and starting to turn brown. Add diced pork and stir briefly. Increase heat to high setting and add ground beef. Brown quickly to retain the juices. Add salt, rice, paprika and pepper and combine well.

Rinse excess salt off cabbage leaves and allow to drain in a colander. Separate the smaller, broken leaves and set them aside. For the larger leaves: trim the thick middle vein with a sharp knife or kitchen scissors without cutting through the leaf. They will be easier to roll that way.

For each cabbage leaf: fill with about 3 tablespoons of meat mixture. Roll in the palm of your hand by following the photos above, or place each cabbage leaf on a cutting board, and then fill and roll with both hands. Stack sarme on the side until all are rolled.

Drizzle a little oil on the bottom of a large stock pot with a wide base. Using the small, broken cabbage leaves, line the bottom of the pot with a single layer. Arrange sarme seam end up and close together on top of the cabbage leaves. With the seam end up, the sarme will stay intact when you scoop it out underneath it with a spoon when you are ready to serve them. Continue layering sarme until they are all in the pot.

Nestle the ribs in the top layer and fill the pot with water almost to cover the top sarme. Sprinkle generously with more paprika and cover sarme with leftover cabbage leaves.

Bring to boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and allow to simmer for 3-4 hours.

To serve: Carefully spoon 2 – 3 sarme per person, and rib meat into a bowl. Ladle some of the broth into bowl. Serve with warm crusty bread.

Kiseli kupus (sauerkraut)

To make sauerkraut, start with heads of cabbages that have the greenest outer leaves. Wash and remove the damaged leaves and discard. Core the cabbages (the core is delicious eaten raw). Stuff the hole with plenty of salt, pushing it in as tightly as you can. The salt will act as a preservative and prevent decay.

Place the cabbages in a barrel or plastic container large enough to fit them. My parents use a garbage can especially for this. Fill the barrel with water and a very generous amount of salt. You will be rinsing the cabbage leaves off later, so don’t be shy about adding plenty of salt.

Cover the cabbages with a large pan or plate and weight it down with a rock. Place lid on container. Place in the coolest part of the house or garage.

EVERY DAY for 3 weeks, the cabbages must be turned and shuffled in the container. This will prevent spoilage and keep the salt evenly dispersed. The sauerkraut will be ready in 3 weeks for sarma.

Prijatno!

Apple galettes with Vanilla bean goat’s milk ice cream and Blue Heron Farm cajeta

2010-03-04T22:44:00.001-06:00

I have never met a goat cheese I didn’t like! Who can resist the rich layered cake-like wonder that is Humboldt Fog, a perfect French crottin or the red wine-soaked Drunken Goat? I’ll never forget my first taste of chèvre. It was a young crottin, covered in chopped walnuts and then toasted so that the cheese was warmed through. It garnished a green salad at lunch years ago at the Château de Chenonceaux in the Loire Valley. The setting: perfect, the chèvre: a revelation!

But I had never tasted fresh raw goat’s milk until recently. It is marvelous! While preparing for a dinner for our wine group, I visited Blue Heron Farm in Field Store Community near Waller, Texas. Owners and artisans Lisa and Christian Seger were our special guests and provided their highly regarded chèvres for several items on the menu. Expecting a gaminess beyond what my cow’s milk-trained palate could savor, I poured some over my granola for breakfast and was blown away by the mild sweetness and ever so subtle tang (which becomes more prominent when the milk is transformed into chèvre). It was a delicious treat I enjoyed all week. .

SPOILED GOATS, FRESH CHEESE exclaims the banner at the entrance to the Seger’s ten-acre property. Forgoing quantity for quality, they have chosen the sweet-natured, long-eared Nubian goats that produce milk that is high in butterfat and mild in flavor. It’s kidding season, and after meeting the adorable babies and their curious mamas, I left with a variety of creamy chèvres, cajeta (caramel) for dessert, and two quarts of freshly harvested goat’s milk. The milk that I didn’t consume with breakfast I used to make a lovely Vanilla bean ice cream (recipe below).

If you live in the Houston area you can find the Seger’s chèvre at several outdoor markets. I suggest you reserve your portion…they are always the first to sell out! You can also arrange for a tour and tasting at the farm.

Our dessert was warm individual Apple galettes made by our friend Helen. Vanilla bean goat’s milk ice cream and Blue Heron Farm cajeta were the perfect accompaniments. If you have never tasted cajeta from Blue Heron Farm, I urge to do so! It’s always fresh, all natural and contains no fillers. It’s the perfect pouring consistency and I admit that I’m addicted to it!

Vanilla bean goat’s milk ice cream

Makes 1 1/2 quarts

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 pinches of salt

4 cups fresh raw goat’s milk (No guarantee that it will be good with commercially produced goat’s milk)

½ vanilla bean pod

2 eggs

Bring a little water (about ½”) to a simmer in the bottom of a double boiler. Whisk sugar, cornstarch and salt in the top bowl of a double boiler. Place on top of simmering water. Slowly add goat’s milk, whisking continuously until the mixture is hot and thickens a little, about 20 minutes.

On a cutting board, split the vanilla bean pod in half lengthwise with a pointed knife. With the sharp tip of the knife, scrape the vanilla seeds (caviar) out and add the bean pod and seeds to the milk mixture.

Beat eggs in a separate bowl until the yolks and whites are combined. Ladle about ½ cup of the hot milk into the eggs and whisk together quickly to prevent them from curdling. Add the eggs to the rest of the milk mixture and cook over the simmering water for an additional 5 minutes, but make sure that it doesn’t boil.

Cool milk custard in an ice water bath, stirring every few minutes. Chill overnight in the refrigerator.

Strain the chilled custard through a sieve and discard the vanilla bean. Freeze the custard by following the directions to your ice cream maker.

Apple galettes

Adapted from Susan Spungen’s Almond Berry Tart from More magazine. Makes 8 galettes.

Crust

½ cup sliced or slivered almonds

1½ cups flour

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1½ sticks cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

¼ cup ice water

Filling

4 cups thinly sliced peeled, cored and quartered apples

½ lemon, juiced or 2 tablespoons

½ cup sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

For the top

Sliced almonds

Coarse ‘crystal’ sugar or Turbinado sugar

To make the crust, combine the almonds, flour, salt and sugar in food processor. Pulse to combine. Add butter and pulse until the pieces are the size of peas. With the machine running, quickly add the water. Stop the machine just when the dough begins to come together. Remove the dough and knead once or twice. Shape into a disc and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 375F. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment or a silpat.

In a medium bowl, combine the filling ingredients. Set aside.

On a well-floured surface, cut the dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece with a rolling pin until it measures about 6 – 7 inches. Pile sliced apples evenly on each piece of dough, leaving a 2-inch border. Fold the border over the filling, leaving some of the apples exposed. Brush the dough gently with cold water and then sprinkle with crystal sugar and sliced almonds.

Bake until the crust is golden brown, about 30 - 45 minutes.

Remove from oven and let cool for 5 minutes before serving with goat’s milk ice cream and cajeta.

Prijatno!

Meze (Mezze)

2010-02-18T00:02:00.001-06:00

Meze (Serbian), mezze (Arabic), and mezé (Greek), are the Eastern Mediterranean appetizers similar to Spanish tapas. Derived from the Persian word maze ‘to taste or snack’, meze consists of plates that are a feast for the eyes. Small bites and dips that are varied in texture, flavor and color, in my native Serbia they are traditionally served with rakija (fruit brandy).

Of all the Slavic nations, the Southern Slavs are the most hospitable…believe me, I’m not partial…and there is no better way for them to demonstrate their warmth and generosity than through an offering of food. Even unannounced guests are treated like family, and there is always more than enough to go around come see my parents’ leftovers sometime! Serbian meze may include pršut (prosciutto), salama, kobasica (sausage), kajmak (clotted cream) and ajvar (red pepper relish). For the sake of this Daring Kitchen challenge and our hostess, I am keeping it vegetarian with Middle Eastern mezze.

My friend Chantal and I spent an enjoyable day baking pita bread and bringing the meze plates together. She has an interesting collection of dinnerware – many choices for the amateur photographer! Just look at those pretty yellow ‘triple bowl’ dishes above. Adorable, and perfect for meze!

In the picture above you will find (counterclockwise from the top): sliced radishes, kalamata olives, walnuts, preserved limes (I just happen to make a jar with Mexican key limes a couple of months ago), hummus with olive oil and a sprinkling of paprika, cucumber raita, hummus again, and pita bread. Feta cheese cubes are in the middle.

The 2010 February Daring Cooks’ challenge was hosted by Michele of Veggie Num Nums. Michele chose to challenge everyone to make mezze based on various recipes from Claudia Roden, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Dugid.

The second plate below (from the top) consists of my favorite dip of all muhammara (I will post the recipe soon), pita bread, potatoes with olive oil and lemon zest, and yoghurt cheese sprinkled with dukkah (a blend of sesame seeds, spices and nuts). Be forewarned: there are healthy quantities of fresh garlic in the dips and falafel. So much so that Husbie and I were able to created enough fumes to ward off the vampires and every disease under the sun for a few days now!

Pita Bread

Adapted from Vefa’s Pita Bread, found at Kalofagas

Serves 8

2½ cups all-purpose flour

1 tsp. salt

3/4 cup warm (body temperature) water

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 Tbsp. active dry yeast

1 tsp. sugar

coarse cornmeal for dusting the dough

vegetable oil for greasing the pan

Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. In a smaller blow, combine the warm water, olive oil, yeast, and sugar and let stand for five minutes or until you see that the yeast is active.

Using your hands, gradually add the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and knead with your hands until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Cover and leave in a warm spot to rise and rest for about 30 minutes.

Divide dough into six pieces and roll out into 6 - 8 -inch rounds that are about 1/4 inch thick. Dust both sides lightly with cornmeal and poke the surface of your pita breads with the tines of a fork. Stack the dough rounds until you are ready to cook the pita bread.

Place a heavy cast-iron skillet (non-stick pan is fine) and heat to medium-high. Pour a little vegetable oil in the skillet and brush to cover the bottom. Carefully place one pita dough in the hot skillet. Cook for about 3 minutes and turn over when you see bubbles forming in the bread.

Place fried pita breads on to a large cotton kitchen towel and cover. Repeat with the rest of the dough, stacking them as you go. Serve warm with falafel or cut into triangles with the various dips and meze.

Cucumber Raita

adapted from The Indian Grocery Store Demystified by Linda Bladholm

1 medium cucumber, peeled and most of the seeds removed
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
2 cups plain whole milk or Greek yogurt
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
fresh coriander and/or mint, chopped, to taste

cayenne pepper or paprika, for the garnish (optional)

Dice the cucumber. Blot off excess moisture with paper towels.
Add cumin, yogurt, garlic, coriander and/or mint. Chill until ready to be served. Sprinkle with cayenne or paprika before serving.

Serve with falafel (above) or pita bread as part of meze (below).

Yogurt cheese sprinkled with Dukkah

To make yogurt cheese, line a medium sieve with two to four layers of cheesecloth (this depends on the weave: more layers for a loose weave, fewer layers for a dense weave). Place the sieve over a bowl. Spoon 2 cups of plain whole milk or lowfat yogurt on the cheesecloth. Cover with the excess cheesecloth and refrigerate overnight.   When ready to serve, unmold and sprinkle with dukkah. Serve with pita bread triangles.

Dukkah

Adapted from Claudia Roden's book, The New Book of Middle Eastern Food and found on Michele’s blog with my adaptations in italics.

1 cup sesame seeds    I made half a recipe, 1/2 cup sesame seeds
1 3/4 cups coriander seeds   I added 2 tablespoons
2/3 cups blanched hazelnuts   I used 1/3 cup raw almonds
1/2 cup cumin seeds   I used 2 tablespoons cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Put each variety of seeds and nuts on a separate tray and roast them all in a preheated 350F oven for 10-20 minutes, until they just begin to color and give off a slight aroma. As they take different times, you must keep an eye on them so that they do not become too brown, and take each out as it is ready. You could also roast them in a frying pan. Put them together in the food processor with salt and pepper and grind them until they are finely crushed, but be careful not to over-blend them into a paste.
To serve, sprinkle a little dukkah on the yogurt cheese or pour a little oil on small slices of bread and sprinkle with the dukkah.

For the hummus, falafel and preserved lemon recipes, please go to Michele’s blog.

This post will be submitted to Susan’s blog Wild Yeast, for her weekly showcase of yeasted foods: YeastSpotting!

Prijatno!

Chicken salad with the flavors of Mexico

2010-02-12T18:19:00.001-06:00

This chicken salad was inspired by the purchase of a good-looking jicama! Firm to the touch and tight-skinned, it was perfect for the taking and going to shine in a Mexican flavored salad I was already composing in my mind. Delicious raw or cooked, its crunchy white flesh has the texture of a firm pear. Slightly sweet on the tongue, the flavor hints of apple and pear.

The jicama (hick-u-ma) is the root of a legume that is related to the potato and is easily found in Texas stores. In Mexico and further south it is commonly served by street vendors with a little lime juice and a dusting of chili powder. When cut into wide strips it can be a healthy replacement for chips – a means to scoop up a guacamole or salsa. In my chicken salad, it adds a mildly sweet crunch and replaces celery handily.

Composed mostly of water and very high in fiber and vitamin C, it’s the perfect diet food. Look for jicama that are hard with tight, dry skins; a flattened ball shape, few bruises and no mold. Pick the smaller ones (1.5lbs – 2.5lbs) as the larger they get, the higher the chance are of them tasting woody.

Chicken salad with the flavors of Mexico

Serves 4

The marinade:

¼ cup fresh lime juice

¼ cup oil (I used olive oil)

½ teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper

2 chicken breasts

The dressing:

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

¼ teaspoon cumin

¼ teaspoon chili powder

½ teaspoon salt

The veggies:

1 poblano pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced; or left raw, seeded and diced

1 4-oz jar pimento peppers, drained

½ red onion, finely chopped

¼ cup green olives, sliced

1 cup jicama, peeled and diced

¼ cup cilantro, chopped

1 fresh jalapeno or 1 tablespoon pickled jalapeno, chopped, optional – for added spice

1 avocado, peeled and cut into cubes

lettuce leaves or toasted bread for sandwiches

Mix marinade ingredients in a medium bowl until well combined. Add chicken breasts and marinate for 30 minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.

Preheat oven to 350F. Transfer chicken to a roasting pan, cover with and roast for 30 minutes or until cooked. Cool and then chop into bite-sized pieces.

Combine the dressing ingredients in a small bowl and whisk until combined.

Place chicken, poblano pepper, pimento peppers, red onion, green olives, jicama, cilantro and jalapeno (if desired). Add dressing and mix gently with a large spoon. Top with avocado and serve on a bed of lettuce leaves or in a sandwich.

My friend, Debbie, and I enjoyed ours on a bed of lettuce leaves while my nephew, Jovan, loved his sandwiched between buttermilk bread.

Prijatno!

Buttermilk dinner rolls from Michael Ruhlman

2010-02-06T02:15:00.001-06:00

I knew I should not have looked at my blogroll this morning. Ruhlman.com was at the top. There he was, Michael Ruhlman, as easy on the eyes as ever, looking straight at me. Today he was pleading, doe-eyed, for me to test a recipe for Buttermilk dinner rolls, then take a photo and send it to him. Being addicted to yeast and having never met a bread I didn’t like, I brushed all duties aside and pulled my instant yeast out of the refrigerator. Who was I to refuse Michael Ruhlman - food expert, writer, cookbook author and blue-eyed Adonis?

Ruhlman found this recipe in Saveur magazine. He had ‘been wanting a soft, comfort-food, James-friendly dinner roll, the kind of Parker House roll that’s slightly sweet and yeasty and soft as a pillow’. If I had to equate them with pillows, these rolls would be on the firm and dense side, made for support! They rose beautifully and produced a tall roll. The tops baked to a deep brown (at 375F) in just 30 minutes but the inside required longer baking. For the novice baker, this could be problem as the rolls looked done. Fortunately the recipe instructed me to test the internal temperature to 195-200F. Perhaps the oven temperature should be reduced to 350F to allow for evenly baked rolls.

The end result was a dense but very tasty roll, especially when eaten hot out of the oven with salted butter and honey! I would bake them again, with slight adjustments in oven temperature, and I’m looking forward to toasting the leftover rolls in the morning for breakfast.

For accuracy, most ingredients were measured on my nifty scale. According to my scale: 800g of Gold Medal unbleached all-purpose flour when scooped into cups equaled 6 1/2 cups (I measured it twice). Here I was curious to see how much the yeasted dough weighed. 1.398kg translates to a little over 3lbs of dough!

And each individual roll weighed 116 grams before being baked. Don’t you just love the black and white flecks? Delicate but distinctive!

I have never measured the internal temperature of bread as I have measured a medium rare steak, but I’m glad I did! The top was a deep brown after 30 minutes and it looked done. I tented it with foil and let it bake for another 15 minutes, taking the temperature every 5 minutes, until the rolls measured 195F and my thermometer stick came out clean.

Buttermilk dinner rolls from Michael Ruhlman

Update: Michael Ruhlman suggested that I reduce the amount of flour to 25 ounces/700g all purpose flour for less dense rolls. The original measure posted was 28 ounces/800 grams all purpose flour.

25 ounces/700g all purpose flour

1/4 ounce/7 grams (1 package/2 tsps) instant or rapid-rise yeast

20 ounces/570 grams buttermilk (2¼ cups), microwaved for 40 to 60 seconds. I heated my buttermilk in the microwave until it measured 85ºF.

1/2 ounce/14 grams kosher salt (1 tablespoon)

1.5 ounces/40 grams honey (2 tablespoons)

olive oil, vegetable spray or butter for greasing a springform pan

1 egg mixed with 1 teaspoon water

1 teaspoon black and white sesame seeds, or poppy seeds (or any other seed you wish to eat)

Combine the flour and instant yeast in the bowl of a standing mixer. Let sit for 30 seconds and then add the buttermilk, salt and honey. Mix on medium until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. I let the machine mix for 5 minutes and hand kneaded for another 5 minutes to ensure that the dough was smooth. (See Michael’s post on Bread Baking Basics for more info on mixing and rising.)

Place about 1 tablespoon oil in a large bowl. Put dough in the bowl and flip it over so that the dough is completely covered with a thin coat of oil. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel. During the winter, I place my dough in my oven so that it rises easily. Turn your oven on to the lowest setting for a minute so that it warms up just a little. Turn the oven off and place the dough on a rack. Close the oven door and allow the dough to rise until doubled in volume (dough shouldn’t bounce back when you press a finger into it). This will take about an hour in a 90ºF oven or at least two hours, maybe three if rising on the kitchen counter.

Turn the dough out onto your counter and give it a good knead. Divide the dough into 12 equal portions (about 116g, 4 ounces each). Form each into a tight boule by rolling it on the counter. Grease a springform pan with olive oil, spray or butter. Fit the boules snugly into it, cover with a towel and let the dough rise for 45 minutes to an hour in the oven, as instructed above.

Preheat your oven to 375F /190C. Whisk the egg and water until it’s uniformly yellow. When the rolls have risen again, brush them with the egg wash and sprinkle them with sesame seeds or poppy seeds. Bake them for 40 minutes (to an internal temperature of 195-200F/90-93C. Check after 30 minutes and tent with foil if the rolls are getting very dark. Let them rest on a rack for about 10 minutes before serving.

These rolls are best hot out of the oven. They are dense with a chewy crust and delicious slathered with salted butter and honey!

This post will be submitted to Susan’s informative blog Yeastspotting!

Prijatno!

Fish tacos with spicy pineapple salsa and red cabbage slaw

2010-02-01T12:40:00.001-06:00

Favorite son, Alex and his lovely girlfriend, Alyssa are quite an accomplished young couple. Both will be graduating from a reputable university in May with degrees in Chemical Engineering and a B.A. and Masters in Accounting respectively, and Husbie and I will finally get a raise…whoop! I recently received a text from Alex asking me that if they opened a cafe, would I ‘pastry chef it up?’ My initial response was absolutely, but first go and earn some money in the field that you have been studying for the past five years and then we’ll talk!

The ‘kids’ are fast becoming very skilled in the kitchen that I step aside and watch in amazement and burst with pride as they pickle vegetables, brew beer, make mayonnaise from scratch, grill burgers with blue cheese sauce, make gyros and much more. I guess I shouldn’t be so surprised since it’s sort of written in their genes! Alyssa hails from a Louisiana family that takes it’s food very seriously. Her mother, Rhonda is an excellent cook who can stuff a shrimp like no one’s business and make a hearty chicken and sausage gumbo that’ll make you want to slap ya’ mama! I have never resorted to fast food as a means of sustenance for my precious children and am happy to see that their philosophy of eating includes an appreciation and respect for fresh ingredients that not only nourish the body, but also provide a healthy avenue for creativity.

Alex’s interest in ethnic cuisines began in a Cuban restaurant. At the age of two, Husbie and I watched in amazement as he polished off a bowl of spicy Cuban salsa without a flinch of an eye! In junior high, he experimented with salsa concoctions and loved to share them with his classmates. One such salsa was so spicy that it managed to agitate the entrails of an intrepid classmate that he had to leave class and go home; I sincerely hope he hasn’t been scarred for life!

Here’s a meal that Alex and Alyssa treated us to recently. Inspired by Rhonda’s recipe, these fish tacos are easy to prepare and include a sunny tropical salsa, crunchy red slaw, buttery avocado slices and delicate tilapia.

Fish tacos with spicy pineapple salsa and red cabbage slaw Serves 4

8 corn tortillas, warmed. I found very good yellow corn and wheat flour blend tortillas from La Tortilla Factory in Santa Rosa, California. They didn’t crack when folded as many corn-only tortillas do. They are available at Kroger grocery stores (one of the few good things I can chime about that comes from this chain. Living in the ‘burbs comes with its own challenges, one of them being the lack of great stores!)

Red cabbage slaw (see recipe below)

Spicy pineapple salsa (see recipe below)

1 avocado, halved, pitted, peeled and sliced

4 pieces of tilapia, or other mild white fish

Coat tilapia in a little oil. Season with salt, pepper, paprika and cayenne, to taste. Just before you are ready to eat, broil the tilapia for about 8 minutes until just cooked.

Serve tilapia with warmed tortillas, pineapple salsa, avocado slices and red cabbage slaw.

Red cabbage slaw

½ red cabbage, finely sliced

1 cup cilantro leaves

1/3 red onion, thinly sliced

4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons lemon or lime juice

2 tablespoons canola oil

Place sliced cabbage, cilantro leaves and sliced red onion in a large bowl. Mix vinegar, honey and lime juice in a small bowl. While whisking quickly, add canola oil to vinegar mixture. Add to coleslaw and mix thoroughly.

Spicy pineapple salsa – this recipe calls for more than you’ll need for the tacos. The rest makes a refreshing tropical dip when served with tortilla chips.

1 large can (20 oz) crushed pineapple in its own juice

1 cup cilantro leaves, lightly packed

2 tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice

3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

hot sauce, to taste. Alex loves Sriracha brand to spice things up.

Place all ingredients in food processor and blend.

This post was submitted to Susan’s informative blog Yeastspotting for this week’s edition.

Prijatno!

Cheese tortellini soup with cannellini beans, kielbasa and kale

2010-01-22T23:27:00.001-06:00

We started off with a lot of promise, the wine group and I. Led by Culinary Program director Stefano at one of the loveliest places on earth, Villa Ferraia in Tuscany, our spirited members fearlessly tackled eggplant parmesan, foccacia, malfatti, ribollita, Sylvia’s amazing torta di cioccolato and many more authentic Tuscan dishes during our weeklong stay.

Barbara, Helen and yours truly making tagliatelle verdi during our morning wine degustazione!

But our greatest challenge was tortelloni. Tortelloni are the larger version of tortellini. It was smart of Stefano not to ask us to make tiny tortellini – you’ll see why! Here Teague, Jeff and Helen are adding the leek and pumpkin stuffing before folding each piece and shaping it into a circle with a flip - later to be sautéed with butter and sage leaves and then topped with grated parmesan. Truly delicious!

Some of the tortelloni were so dainty and cute. The shape, as the story goes, was inspired by Lucrezia Borgia’s sensual navel!

Here’s the first batch sitting pretty by the window. Not bad.

But by the time we were done…UGH! What a mess…tasty yes, but miserably inconsistent in size and shape!

Astounded, our patient tutor Stefano holds up the biggest one! It’s an Amazon’s navel, for goodness sake!

We realize that we’ll never be able to duplicate what the Italian mamas do on a daily basis, so we reach for the next best thing, fresh stuffed tortellini in the refrigerator section of the grocery store. They’re perfectly shaped (by nothing other than a machine), relatively inexpensive and tasty, and they add flavor and texture to this hearty soup introduced to me by my wine buddies Jeff and Doris…and it doesn’t hurt to include some spicy sausage either!

Cheese tortellini soup with cannellini beans, kielbasa, and kale, slightly adapted from Bon Appétit, February 2002

Yield: Makes 6 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil
12 ounces fully cooked, smoked kielbasa (sausage), thinly sliced (I used Chappell Hill jalapeño sausage)
1 onion, chopped
1 cup chopped fresh fennel bulb (about ½ large bulb. You could use the other half in a fresh salad)
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
½ - 1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
10 cups canned low-salt beef broth (chicken broth is good too)
4 cups chopped kale (1/2 bunch)
1 15-ounce can cannellini (white kidney beans), rinsed and drained
1 9-ounce package fresh cheese tortellini
1 cup grated Parmesan, Asiago or Gruyère cheese

garlic bread, toasted (optional)

Heat olive oil in a heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add sausage, onion, fennel, garlic, thyme and red pepper and sauté until the vegetables are soft and the sausage is brown, about 12 minutes. Add broth and bring to a boil. Stir in kale and cannelloni beans. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the kale is wilted, about 4 minutes. You can make the soup ahead up to this point. Cool and refrigerate until you are ready to serve it. Heat the soup before continuing with the next step.

Add tortellini to hot soup. Simmer until pasta is just tender but still has some bite (al dente), about 5 - 8 minutes. Ladle soup into bowls. Top with grated cheese of your choice and serve with toasted garlic bread.

Prijatno!

Pork Satay with Peanut sauce and Pepper dip

2010-01-15T23:43:00.001-06:00

Indonesian restaurants are a dime a dozen in The Netherlands, but here in sprawling Houston (a city that boasts more ethnic eateries than any other city in the US) it is inconceivable that there are only two (deux, dva, dos, yes only 2) listed. Compared to Chinese, Vietnamese and Indian restaurants, they are an anomaly. When visiting my sister and her family during their two stints in Holland, Sama Sebo on Hooftstraat, down the street from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, was our favorite Indonesian restaurant. With our little boys, we would stop in for an afternoon snack between sight-seeing and the museums and always order the Sateh. Normally quiet between meals, we had the entire place to ourselves. They also serve a nice Rijsttafel.

I have longed for the Sama Sebo recipe. Their Sateh was served accompanied by a dark and spicy peanut sauce (the likes of which I have not had since) and slices of fresh bread. I believe this recipe comes pretty close to the real deal, but Sama Sebo’s sauce will always be my sentimental favorite! My nephews were my taste-testers today – one of them the little boy in a stroller in Sama Sebo sixteen years ago! He is now 6’4” tall and a freshman in college! Both he and his brother gave this Satay two thumbs up and made me promise to make it again, as well as Jen’s dumplings!

The January 2010 DC challenge was hosted by Cuppy of Cuppylicious and she chose a delicious Thai-inspired recipe for Pork Satay from the book 1000 Recipes by Martha Day.

The recipe below includes my minor changes. I chose to use pork tenderloin because I like the leanness factor and I was confident the marinade would inject a lot of flavor into the otherwise bland meat. I was right and it was tender and moist and very flavorful. The fish sauce in the marinade is optional but I always include it; what would an Asian dish be without it? If you want to see the original recipe, please see Cuppy’s link above.

Pork Satay with Peanut sauce and Pepper dip

Satay marinade

1/2 small onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon ginger root, chopped
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon ‘lite’ soy sauce
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil (or peanut or olive oil)

1 pound pork tenderloin or loin

If you have a food processor, place all ingredients except the pork and blend until smooth. Otherwise, chop onion, garlic and ginger as fine as you can and mix with the other ingredients until well blended.
Cut pork tenderloin in half crosswise and then into 1 inch wide by 1/2-inch thick strips (the strips should measure about 4 - 5 inches in length). Place in a bowl or Ziploc bag and add marinade. Blend together so that the pork strips are completely covered. Chill for 2 hours for tenderloin and 4 hours and up to 24 hours for less tender cuts.

To cook:

If using wooden or bamboo skewers, soak your skewers in warm water for at least 20 minutes before preparing skewers to try to prevent them from burning. As you can see from the pictures, my skewers charred, but fortunately they didn’t effect the flavor of the meat.
Gently and slowly slide meat strips onto skewers. Discard leftover marinade.
Broil or grill at 290°C/550° F for 8-10 minutes or until the edges just start to char. Flip and cook another few minutes until cooked through.

Peanut sauce

3/4 cup coconut milk (6 oz or 180 mls) Next time, I will reduce this amount for a thicker sauce.
4 tablespoons peanut butter (2 oz or 60 mls)
1 tablespoons lemon juice (0.5 oz or 15 mls)
1 tablespoons ‘lite’ soy sauce (0.5 oz or 15 mls)
1 teaspoon brown sugar (5 mls)
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin (2.5 mls)
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander (2.5 mls)
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 cup chopped peanuts (as a topping)

Mix dry ingredients in a small bowl. Add soy sauce and lemon, mix well. Over low heat, combine coconut milk, peanut butter and your soy-lemon-seasoning mix. Mix well with a whisk until the peanut butter has melted and the mixture is smooth.

Pepper dip

4 tablespoons ‘lite’ soy sauce (2 oz or 60 mls)
1 tablespoon lemon juice (0.5 oz or 15 mls)
1 teaspoon brown sugar (5 mls)
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 finely chopped green onion (scallion)

Mix well. Serve chilled or at room temperature with the Peanut sauce and chopped peanuts.

Thanks to Lis and Ivonne for founding our Daring Bakers and Daring Cooks groups and keeping us on track with great ideas.

Prijatno!

Slow-roasted BBQ pork sandwiches with Sweet-and-Sour Coleslaw from Mustards Grill

2010-01-13T00:03:00.001-06:00

Stacey’s Shredded pork tacos in Colorado last year were spicy and succulent and I have been looking forward to experimenting with a pork ‘butt’ again . Slow-cooked all day, the pork ‘butt’ is actually part of the shoulder and is the perfect example of an inexpensive cut of meat that turns into wonder when cooked in low heat over a long period of time. Marbling that runs throughout prevents the pork from drying out and eventually melts away allowing it to be ‘pulled’ or shredded effortlessly. I have considered becoming a vegetarian many times, but I always reconsider when thoughts of tender smoked ribs, sugar-crusted ham and pulled pork come to mind!

Having dined at Mustards Grill (an institution in the Napa wine country) our wine group agreed that Cindy Pawlcyn and her crew are experts in preparing pork. Their BBQ Baby back ribs are marvelous and the Mongolian pork chops with braised red cabbage has been a signature dish for many years. Fortunately for us, the Mustards Grill Napa Valley Cookbook was published in 2001 and it remains a favorite until today.

It is SOME COOKBOOK! Our wine group has used it many times: Hanger steak with watercress sauce and Onion jam at Jeff and Doris’ was to die for and the Crab cakes with red beet and horseradish remoulade and Seared Ahi tuna on sesame crackers with wasabi cream are brilliant appetizers. Brian and Helen have mastered the Mongolian pork chops. Strawberry-rhubarb cobbler with black pepper biscuits topped with Caramel ice cream, and Lemon-lime meringue pie (with it’s sky high brown sugar meringue) are most impressive – just ask Nina! Being a person who doesn’t partake of dessert very often, she scarfed a generous slice of the pie down in no time and we’ll never let her forget it!

Slow-Smoked BBQ Pork Sandwiches with Ooo-Eee! Sauce is a great recipe that requires the meat to be smoked over a period of several hours. Having endured unusually frigid temperatures in Houston of late, setting up the smoker was out of the question! I opted to slow-roast it in the oven and was rewarded with sweet, juicy and very tender meat that took no effort to pull apart. Apply the seasoning rub the night before you plan to roast it, if possible.

Slow-Roasted BBQ Pork Sandwiches with Ooo-Eee! Sauce and Sweet-and-Sour Coleslaw adapted from the Mustards Grill Napa Valley Cookbook

1 (2½ - 3 lb) bone-in pork butt or picnic roast (I bought a 7lb picnic roast and doubled the rest of the ingredients)

rind of 1 orange, grated finely

1½ tablespoons of freshly ground black pepper

1½ teaspoons ancho chile powder (or chipotle chile powder – for a spicier finish)

½ teaspoon sweet paprika

½ teaspoon hot paprika

1/4 cup kosher salt

3 tablespoons sugar

Ooo-Eee! Sauce

½ cup of your favorite BBQ sauce

½ cup cider vinegar

¼ cup apple cider

¼ cup sugar

¾ cup water

You will also need:

½ red onion, thinly sliced

6 seeded bread rolls

Sweet-and-Sour Coleslaw (see recipe below)

Lay the pork butt skin side up on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, cut the skin off the pork butt through the fatty layer dividing the skin and the meat. Set the skin aside.

In a small bowl, combine the orange peel, black pepper, ancho chile powder, sweet paprika, hot paprika, kosher salt and sugar. Rub this mixture liberally on the pork, using your fingers to push the seasonings into all the crevices and indentations by the bone. Replace the pork skin on the meat and season it as well. Cover the meat and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or preferably overnight.

To slow-roast: Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Place the pork butt in a heavy roaster which is just big enough to fit the roast. You want the roast to fit snugly in the roaster so that the moisture is not dispersed too much. Cover roaster with the lid and place in the oven. Immediately reduce the temperature to 225ºF and allow the meat to roast for about 5-7 hours. You can even do this overnight.

During the last hour of roasting, remove the lid and allow the pork skin to crisp. Remove from the oven and test for doneness: prick the meat with a fork and twist the fork. If the meat falls apart, it is done! Allow the meat to cool for a little while and then pull it apart, removing any fatty parts that have not melted away.

Towards serving time, combine all the sauce ingredients in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook until it is slightly thickened. Carefully add the pulled pork pieces to the sauce and stir together to coat the meat.

To assemble the sandwich: Cut the bread rolls open and remove some of the soft bread inside (this will provide a nice ‘nest’ for the meat). Toast the rolls. Scoop a generous amount of pork on one toasted half of a roll, top with sliced onions, Sweet-and-Sour Coleslaw, and top with the other half of the roll. You can also serve the coleslaw on the side, if you prefer.

Sweet-and-Sour Coleslaw

½ to ¾ head of red or green cabbage, thinly sliced

1 red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced

2 carrots, peeled and grated

¼ cup sugar

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup cider vinegar

2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Combine sliced cabbage, bell pepper and carrots in a large bowl. To make the dressing, combine the sugar, mustard, salt and pepper in a small saucepan. Gradually whisk in vinegar and olive oil. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook for 1 minute. Cool for about 5 minutes and then pour the dressing over the cabbage mixture. Refrigerate until ready to be served.

Prijatno!

Poppy seed and Walnut strudels for Eastern Orthodox Christmas

2010-01-07T14:37:00.001-06:00

Mir Božiji, Hristos se rodi! The peace of God, Christ is born! That is the greeting you will hear on January 7 across Serbia, other parts of former Yugoslavia and Russia. Eastern Orthodox Christians remain the last holdouts against change of the theological calendar from the Julian to the Gregorian calendar. Therefore, Christmas (Božić) comes two weeks after the rest of Christianity celebrates the birth of Christ. Kids being kids, celebrating Christmas twice has never been a problem for our children who are products of an American father and a Serbian mother!

So when everyone else is back to a normal schedule and on their first diet of the New Year, my parents are in full swing smoking meat and preparing the sour cabbage that has been fermenting for weeks for the sarme (cabbage rolls). They also roast pork, and Mama makes a delicious Russian salad with chopped ham and vegetables .

My job for Božić is to not forget to include the lucky coin in the česnica before I bake it! The kids especially look forward to pulling their piece of bread from the česnica to see if it contains the lucky coin. And this year I tried my hand at walnut and poppy seed strudels. They are traditionally baked during the holidays and consist of a rich and buttery yeast dough with a sweet filling of nuts or poppy seeds. Known as štrudle (pl.) in Serbia, these are also known as Beigli in Hungary, Potica in Slovenia, Povitica in Croatia, and Makowiec in Poland. I am very pleased at how they turned out, having done a lot of research in books and on the web and finally combining several different recipes to create my own. These strudels are very moist and can be eaten at any time of day.

Poppy seed and Walnut strudels. Makes 4 12” rolls (2 walnut and 2 poppy seed)

For the dough:

1 1/2 teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast

5 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading

1 1/2 cups milk

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks, 8 ozs) unsalted butter, cut into 1” pieces

6 egg yolks (the egg whites will be used in the walnut filling)

For the walnut filling:

1 1/2 pounds walnuts

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

pinch of salt

1/4 cup (1/2 stick, 2 ozs) unsalted butter, cut into 1” pieces

1/2 cup milk

6 egg whites

For the poppy seed filling:

2 cans poppy seed cake and pastry filling (I use Solo brand). Open them and you’re ready to go!

To make the dough and strudels:

In a large mixing bowl, combine yeast and flour. Using a paddle attachment, blend the two ingredients at low speed. Set aside.

Measure milk, sugar, salt and butter in a microwaveable measuring cup. Heat in microwave at 30 second intervals until the butter is melted and the mixture measures between 110F – 120F. On low speed, pour the milk and egg yolks into the flour mixture. Beat until the mixture has formed a sticky mass and the ingredients have blended, about 2 minutes. Turn the dough out onto a heavily floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. Lightly oil a large bowl; place the dough in the bowl and turn to coat with oil. Cover with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1 hour. Because the dough is very rich with eggs and butter, it may even take up to 1 1/2 hours.

Line a large 12” x 18” baking sheet with a silpat or parchment paper (grease parchment with oil). Turn the dough onto a generously floured surface. Pat it down with your hands into a large rectangle (photo left).

Cut the dough into two equal pieces. Set one aside. ***Roll one piece of dough to 1/4-inch thickness or 24” x 16”. Spread with walnut filling up to about 1 inch of the edges (top right photo).

Fold the 1-inch edges over the filling at both short sides (see pictures above). Starting with one long side, roll the dough tightly to the other end, like a jelly roll. Cut the roll into two equal 12” strudels. Pinch the exposed ends to seal the filling inside. Place each roll on the prepared baking sheet so that the long seams are on the bottom and the rolls fit crosswise on the sheets. Space the rolls out (you will have 4) so there will be space in between rolls for them to rise.
Now take the dough that has been set aside and roll it out the same way (instructions start here ***). Fill it with poppy seed filling. Roll up as instructed above, cut into two and place on baking pan. You should now have 4 rolls.

Cut a piece of wax paper large enough to cover the strudels. Spray or grease one side with oil. Cover the strudels and allow to rise until doubled in volume. Gently spread the tops with a little of the beaten egg whites left over from the walnut filling. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Bake at 350 degrees for about 60 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown. Cool completely. Slice into thin sections and using a sieve, dust with confectioner’s sugar.

To make the walnut filling:

Grind walnuts, sugar, cinnamon and salt in a food processor until finely ground. Pour the mixture into a medium saucepan. Add the butter and milk. Over medium heat, stir the mixture constantly until the butter has melted and the mixture is starting to dry. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Beat the egg whites until they are stiff. When the walnut mixture has cooled, add about 2/3 of the egg whites to it and fold gently with a spatula until completely combined (you will use the rest of the whites to spread the tops of the strudels before you bake them). Use this filling as stated above.

I have submitted this recipe to Susan’s Yeastspotting roundup. Check her site for more delicious yeast-driven recipes.

To my Eastern Orthodox family and friends: Želim vam Sretan BoŽić i najlepšu i uspešnu 2010!

Prijatno!

Krofne - Serbian doughnuts for good luck in 2010!

2010-01-05T00:42:00.001-06:00

New Year’s Day traditions invariably involve resolutions, a fresh start and the consumption of certain foods which are believed to hold the promise of good luck, good health and prosperity and undoubtedly help to lessen the effects of hangovers! In the South, black-eyed peas and collard greens are the key ingredients, while in Italy and Brazil it’s lentils. The Spaniards eat twelve grapes at midnight, one for each coming month, and in Poland and Germany herring and sauerkraut work their magic.

In my native Serbia, the tradition is to eat krofne. Krofne are sweet and airy doughnuts that are made with a yeast-activated dough similar to beignets, Dutch oliebollen and Polish pączki. As the yeast feeds on the sugar, the dough rises and so will your good fortune! Always round in shape, krofne symbolize that we have come full circle and are about to start anew.

Krofne are delicious hot with just a sprinkling of sugar, or filled with jam, preserves, honey, cinnamon or even Nutella. Each person fills their own once they are served. These come with a warning: once you’ve had one, you have to have another, and another, and another…!

Krofne (Serbian doughnuts) adapted from Violet Sekulich’s recipe at St Sava Serbian Orthodox Church in Merrillville, Indiana.

7 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting and kneading

1 tablespoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

1 cup milk

1 cup water

1/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons salt

1 stick (4 ozs.) unsalted butter, cut up into 1 tablespoon chunks

3 large eggs

1/2 gallon vegetable oil

Blend 7 cups flour and instant yeast in a large bowl. Set aside.

Combine milk, water, sugar, salt and butter in a microwave-safe bowl (I use a glass measuring bowl). Microwave at intervals (depending on how strong your microwave is), until the liquids register between 110° – 120°F. Pour liquids and eggs into flour and yeast mixture and beat with a wooden spoon until the mixture in blended and sticky.

Generously flour a work surface and dump the dough on the flour. Knead for about 5 minutes, adding flour a little at a time until the dough is smooth and slightly sticky. Lightly grease a bowl with oil. Place the dough in the bowl and flip it over so that the entire surface of the dough is covered in oil. Place the dough in a warm part of the kitchen and allow it to rise until it is double in size. When the dough has doubled in size, place it on a floured work surface and punch it down with your hands.

Sprinkle a little flour on top and fold the dough over itself a couple of times. Knead for a couple of minutes and using a rolling pin, roll the dough until it is about 1/2” thick. Using a 2.5” cookie cutter dipped in flour, cut dough into rounds as shown below. Here we’re using an old cookie cutter which is leaving a circular impression in the dough which disappeared as the doughnuts rose.

Transfer each dough round onto a floured cookie sheet lined with a silpat, parchment or wax paper. Allow to rest for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a fryer to 350°F. Fry doughnuts until light brown, flipping them over after about 2 minutes. Drain for a couple of minutes on a cookie rack that has been placed on newspaper.

Transfer the doughnuts to a serving platter and dust with confectioner’s sugar. Serve with your choice of jams or preserves, honey, cinnamon or Nutella.

I wish all of my readers and their families peace, love, understanding and joy in 2010!

Prijatno!

Grand Marnier date balls

2009-12-29T21:59:00.001-06:00

2010 is almost upon us so let the New Year’s Party preparations begin! If you’re just about ‘baked up’ as I am, you’ll be thankful for this easy recipe that takes less than 5 minutes to make and a few more minutes to form into balls for a pretty presentation.

These Date balls shown in enormous detail above! are a standard dessert item at our annual Eastern Orthodox St. Nicholas celebration every December 19th and continue to please at every occasion beyond. The infusion of Grand Marnier and orange zest in the dates creates an elegant and decidedly adult treat. Chocolate plays second fiddle and acts merely as a binder.

I prefer Medjool dates for their dark, succulent flesh and intense honey-like sweetness. Also known as the Queen among dates, the Medjool palm originated in Morocco and was brought to California in the early 20th Century where it has been cultivated ever since. Dates were an important fuel for the desert tribes and nomads of north Africa and the Middle East. Because they travel well, they were successfully introduced to the Greeks and Romans on the other side of the Mediterranean, where they were highly prized and sold at markets wrapped in gilded paper.

Dates are high in potassium, fiber and natural sugars which make them a perfect energy snack for athletes. Check out my date energy bars that I make for my ride during the MS150 every year. They are also marvelous in savory dishes.

I suggest you make the mixture a couple of days before you plan to serve the balls. It will allow the rich flavors to ‘marry’ and we all know that good things come to those who wait ….

Place pitted dates, walnuts and Grand Marnier in a food processor

Process until it’s a coarse mixture

Add orange zest and melted chocolate and pulse until it all comes together

It’s that simple!

Date Balls – if possible, make the mixture a couple of days before you plan to serve. Makes about 40 balls.

8 oz. (2 cups) pitted whole dates, preferably Medjool

1 cup walnuts

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier, brandy or orange juice concentrate

fine zest of 1 orange

½ cup chopped bittersweet chocolate or good quality semi-sweet chocolate chips (Callebaut, Ghirardelli 60% cacao or Guittard would work well. The cheaper brands have too much sugar and are less flavorful).

sparkling (sanding) sugar or confectioner’s sugar

Put dates, walnuts and Grand Marnier in a food processor. Pulse until coarsely chopped (see photo above).

Melt chocolate slowly in a double boiler or microwave. Add zest and melted chocolate to the date mixture and pulse just until the mixture comes together. If necessary, add a little more melted chocolate. Transfer to a bowl, cover and chill for a couple of days so that the flavors can blend.

When you are ready to make the date balls, scoop a little of the mixture (I use a melon ‘baller’) and shape into small balls using your fingers . Roll in sparkling sugar or confectioner’s sugar.

Serve in decorative paper cups, if desired.

Prijatno!

Season’s Greetings!

2009-12-24T22:51:00.001-06:00

Look what I picked up at a cookie exchange last weekend! This pretty cookie came from Paulie’s Restaurant in Houston. Delivered to the Houston Chowhounds’ cookie exchange by Paul Petronella and made by his mother Kathy, they were part of an array of tasty sweets enjoyed by all.

Probably the most creative of all were Plinio Sandalio’s Oatmeal sandwich cookies with foie gras buttercream - luscious and decadent! Bolivian born Plinio, a savory chef turned pastry chef, is rocking the Houston culinary scene with his off-the-wall combinations. He is gracious enough to share his recipes here.

I wish you, my readers, a magical Christmas filled with endless joy, laughter and love; and peace, happiness and prosperity in 2010!

Prijatno!

Smoked Salmon with Shallot mayonnaise and Meyer lemon slices

2009-12-21T21:57:00.001-06:00

As they say “time flies when you’re having fun”! It’s been a year since I started Prijatno! and it has been a most enjoyable and enriching experience. Since I’m the ‘live to eat’ type and not vice versa ‘eat to livers’ - too skinny - I’ll never be one of them I take my adventurous palate and relish the chance to try new ingredients and challenges out of the ordinary. I’ve made my own homemade puff pastry and Chinese dumpling dough. I have enjoyed sharing my family, my culture and traditions with you as well as phenomenal dinners, programs and places.

Personal issues with computers aside techno geeks – I’ll never be one of them, I love the blogging process. It starts with creativity and cooking in the kitchen and moves on to recipe development (if it’s mine), writing and editing, photographing, organizing it, and finally the most fun of all is pushing the ‘Publish’ button and waiting to receive your comments! I am thrilled that I have found a suitable avenue for sharing my culinary experiments and adventures with you because I believe good food and recipes are for sharing, after all!

Thanks for the positive feedback from fellow bloggers, readers and followers. Comments are very important to me so don’t be shy! If you’ve never written a comment to a blog post, try it - it’s easy! Just click on “click to leave a comment” at the end of this post and follow the directions. If you don’t have a “profile”, a Google account takes just a couple of minutes to set up.

In my last post I talked about our Meyer lemon crop. We have been enjoying the lemons in desserts, salads, drinking water and in this delicious sandwich with smoked salmon.

Smoked Salmon with Shallot mayonnaise and Meyer lemon slices

Makes 4 sandwiches

Shallot Mayonnaise

1/2 cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

2 - 3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro or parsley

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 - 8 thin slices of firm bread (I used homemade oat bread). That’s 4 slices for ‘open-faced’ sandwiches, and 8 slices if you like your sandwich ‘closed’.

1 Meyer lemon, sliced as thin as you can

4 oz smoked salmon slices

1 tablespoon chives, chopped

To make the Shallot mayonnaise: combine mayonnaise, shallots, cilantro or parsley, and black pepper in a small bowl. Set aside or refrigerate if using later.

For open-faced sandwiches: Toast 4 slices of bread. Spread with Shallot mayonnaise. Top with thin slices of Meyer lemon, smoked salmon, a small dollop of Shallot mayonnaise and some chopped chives.

For closed sandwiches: Toast the remaining 4 slices of bread and top the sandwiches with them. Slice in half and enjoy!

Prijatno!

Meyer lemon ice cream

2009-12-12T20:21:00.001-06:00

There was a mad dash last week to harvest the Meyer lemons, Key limes and basil from the yard in anticipation of a hard freeze. Both procrastinators to the max why do it now when you can do it mañana?, Husbie and I waited until the temperatures plummeted to grab the shears and head outside. He was smart enough to don gardening gloves, but I grabbed my more appropriate fur coat (my friends would expect nothing less from me!) and clipped and clipped until I could no longer feel my fingers. Frostbite aside… LOOK AT MY BEAUTIFUL MEYER LEMON BOUNTY!

Also known as the Valley Lemon in citrus growing areas of southern Texas, the Meyer lemon is native to China. It was introduced to the US in the early 20th Century. Each tree is potentially a prolific producer, and can con many into believing that it is fake – the lemons are like perfect golden orbs that lighten up the winter landscape alas, mine is now stripped naked…

The Meyer lemon is a cross between a lemon and a mandarin orange and produces fruit that is larger, sweeter and less acidic than the true lemon. It is edible in its entirety because its skin is thin and devoid of a thick and bitter pith. It is high in dietary fiber and vitamin C. Popular with chefs because of its mild acidity and fragrant skin, it was first popularized by Chez Panisse Restaurant’s Alice Waters in Berkeley, California..

I’m going to have so much fun cooking with them! I am planning on making Meyer lemon marmalade, this Torta della Nonna, limoncello, lemon tarts, lemon cookies, lemon infused olive oil and lemon-basil pesto and still not be sick of them! But first up is this custard-based lemon ice cream that is fresh, cool and creamy.

Meyer Lemon Ice Cream
from Ultimate Ice Cream in Asheville, North Carolina, found on Tartelette’s fabulous blog.

finely grated zest of 3 Meyer lemons
1/2 cup Meyer lemon juice, freshly squeezed and strained
3/4 cup sugar
4 egg yolks
pinch of salt
1 cup milk
2 cups heavy cream

Combine the lemon zest, juice, and sugar in a non-reactive bowl and refrigerate for a couple of hours, stirring occasionally so that the acid in the lemon juice dissolves the sugar.

Heat the milk in a large saucepan until just barely boiling and remove from heat. In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks and whisk the warm milk into the yolks. Pour the egg yolks and milk back into the saucepan. Over medium low heat, stir constantly until it starts to thicken and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat immediately as the eggs may curdle. Strain the custard through a sieve and refrigerate for a couple of hours until completely chilled.

Mix the egg custard, heavy cream, and the lemon slurry together. Check the taste of the lemon cream – you can add up to 2 tablespoons of lemon juice now if you prefer it to be more tart. Follow your ice cream maker’s instructions and enjoy!

Prijatno!

Scottish oatmeal with Cranberry-orange compote for a snowy day

2009-12-08T14:38:00.001-06:00

A thrilling and arousing event took place on Friday, my friends: it snowed in Houston! A rare sight in our subtropical part of the world, it caused squeals of excitement that could be heard all the way from the end of the street! The earliest snowfall in any year on record, some areas near Galveston received as much as one to three inches. Quite an experience for some kids who have only seen the white powder in pictures.

The following (cold and icy) morning our droopy roses looking like they were made of crystallized sugar.

And the clouds gave way to beautiful crystal clear skies.

With all the Holiday parties, cookie exchanges and baking, it’s a good idea to make sure that one’s system is moving, if you know what I mean! Oatmeal is a heartwarming way to start the day, especially when you’ve braved a snow storm and sub zero temperatures, such as we have!

I like to use Scottish oats because they are ‘steel-cut’ and minimally processed . The oat groats are ground into a coarse meal, resulting in a chewy, yet creamy oatmeal. Irish oats (also steel-cut) are coarser, and must be cooked longer. Steel cut oats differ from rolled (old-fashioned) oats because rolled oats are groats that have been flattened and softened into flakes which are then steamed, thus allowing them to cook quicker. High in iron, protein and fiber, it is best to cook steel-cut oats al dente to maintain their nutritional benefits. Instant oats are precooked, prefabricated and dried and provide far fewer nutritional benefits. The faster the oats cook, the quicker they will cause a spike in insulin - so don’t bother with Instant oats at all, plus the packets are loaded with way too much sugar.

Fresh cranberries are a staple in my refrigerator at this time of year, but they can and should be eaten year round - they freeze well and maintain their juices and flavor. I must be one of the few crazy people who can tolerate their tartness and eat them raw…pucker! I’m always looking for new and inventive ways to incorporate them into our meals and desserts, other than with the standard turkey or ham stay tuned for more recipes. They are loaded with Vitamin C and are high in fiber and when made into a tangy compote, they will perk up your everyday oatmeal!

Scottish oatmeal for two

½ cup Scottish oatmeal (I like Bob’s Red Mill, available in many grocery stores)

pinch of salt

1½ cups cold water

pinch of ground cinnamon

milk, optional

Whisk oatmeal, salt and water in a small pot and bring to a boil on medium heat. Reduce heat to low and allow oatmeal to cook for about 8 - 10 minutes, whisking occasionally. Remove from heat and serve with cinnamon, Cranberry-orange compote and a little milk, if you so wish.

Cranberry-orange compote for two

½ cup fresh cranberries

1- 2 tablespoons white or brown sugar

zest from about half an orange

¼ cup water

Place all ingredients in a small pot and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and cook for about 8 minutes or until the cranberries are soft and the compote has thickened.

Serve hot with Scottish oatmeal.

I couldn’t resist grating some extra orange zest on top of it all!

Prijatno!

Beef stew with portabella mushrooms, pearl onions and red wine

2009-12-03T20:19:00.001-06:00

The word from the weatherman is that we’re expecting sleet and “if the timing is right” maybe even a dusting of snow in Houston tomorrow. It means that I’ll be off the roads and away from the local yahoos who will become quite a bit more dangerous than they already are in normal conditions. Some drivers just refuse to slow down for nuthin’!

Ah…snow! Love it for short periods of time only…like four or five days in the spring when we’re skiing! I love the powder crunching under my skis; love its beauty when it cloaks the mountains and in contrast with the blue sky; love its shimmer when the sun shines; love the snowflakes... Yes, I’ll take advantage of it for a few days a year, BUT I much prefer our temperate Houston winters, thank you very much!

I’ve had my fair share of a Winter Wonderland when I lived in Toronto for almost 4 years. One of my most vivid memories was walking to the bus stop to catch my bus to the university. I had to walk backwards to protect my face from the pelting wind. Hunched over, step by treacherous step on the icy sidewalk, I kept on thinking: this is it - I’m going to fall on my bum and break my bones and it’s going to be sooo embarrassing, and I’m going to hit my head and be brain-damaged! In hindsight, it would have been a little easier had I not been wearing my trendy high-heeled boots! But fashion always came before comfort when I was a young lady in my early twenties – wouldn’t be caught dead in a pair of flat rubber-soled boots…not on your life!

I love our Houston winters. The sun visits almost every day and we rarely need our heavy coats. But every few years we can expect a sharp dip in the temperature and tiny snowflakes that have the staying power to blanket the ground. It’s short-lived…the warmth of the sun takes care of that!

With the chill in the air, here’s a good recipe that will warm your insides – beef stew with hearty mushrooms, delicate pearl onions and red wine. Use wine that you would enjoy drinking with the stew. I opened a 2007 Côtes-du-Rhône from Saint-Esprit, our newest best buy - inexpensive but quite good.

Beef stew with portabella mushrooms, pearl onions and red wine

Serves 6

2 thick (1/3-inch) slices of pancetta, cubed into ½-inch pieces

2 - 2½ lbs beef stewing meat (beef chuck is good)

cooking oil, for browning

1 bag frozen pearl onions, about 14oz (they’re peeled and ready to go!)

1½ cups red wine. 1½ - 2 cups low-sodium beef broth

2 bay leaves, preferably fresh, if available

1 tablespoon Hungarian paprika

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

16 – 20 ounces baby portabella mushrooms, sliced thick

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ - 1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons flour

¼ cup freshly chopped parsley

Sear the pancetta in a heavy pot (I used my Le Creuset Dutch Oven) over high heat. With a slotted spoon, remove pancetta to a bowl and set aside. Brown the stewing meat in the remaining fat in about 3 batches, adding cooking oil if necessary. Sear meat until brown on most sides, turning the pieces quickly. Remove each batch of meat and add to pancetta in a bowl.

Add the pearl onions to the remaining oil (it’s ok if they’re still frozen) and brown them until caramel in color. Be careful not to burn the juices and bits of meat on the bottom of the pan.

Carefully add the red wine and cook for about a minute, scraping the bottom with a spatula. You want the wine to loosen all the delicious flavors at the bottom of the pot. Add beef broth, bay leaves, paprika and black pepper. If most of the meat is not covered with the liquids, add more wine or broth. Reduce the heat to ‘low’ and allow the mixture to simmer slowly until the meat starts to become tender, about 1 - 1½ hours, depending on the cut of meat you use.

Add mushrooms and red pepper flakes to meat. Season with salt to your liking and continue to simmer until the mushrooms and meat are very tender, about 30 minutes to 1 hour.

When the meat is tender and the mushrooms are soft, whisk the flour with ¼ cup water in a small bowl until smooth. Add to stew and cook for an additional 10 minutes to thicken the broth.

To serve: Add fresh parsley to the stew and serve with mashed potatoes or polenta. It’s even better the next day! Here I served it in individual soup dishes with mashed white and sweet potatoes. Broil for a few minutes to brown the tops of the potatoes if you wish.

Prijatno!

Rest in peace Virginia ‘Ginny’ Harris

2009-11-29T17:52:00.001-06:00

Virginia Grant Harris

November 6, 1924 – November 27, 2009

At this time of Thanksgiving, we are thankful for the life of my dear mother-in-law, Virginia Grant Harris, who passed away after a long illness on Friday. She was married to Teague ‘Bucky’ Harris for 64 years. They raised two exemplary sons, Teague and John, of whom she was very proud.

Ginny grew up in Greenville, South Carolina and spent many happy days at the family farm near Ware Shoals. An x-ray technician during WWII, she later became a devoted military wife and enjoyed assignments in Panama, California, Hawaii, Washington D.C., Alabama, Texas, and Athens, Greece. As the air force base commander’s wife in Athens, Mrs. Harris put her refined entertaining skills to good use. Her fine china, crystal and silverware were placed on pure Irish linen tablecloths; her menu was always relevant.

A Southern lady to the core, her delicate hands were often clothed in one of many in her impressive collection of stylish ladies’ gloves that could rival the Queen’s! Many of her elegant outfits were custom made and she was partial to cashmere sweater sets. Ginny was also an accomplished Bridge player, an avid reader, and a lover of Welsh Corgis. She enjoyed a good joke and delivered a particularly racy one in her Southern drawl…now that’s nice!

Mrs. Harris was an all-round homemaker and an accomplished cook. She baked her son, my husband, his favorite Caramel cake every year for his birthday. She hosted many Thanksgiving meals and taught me how to roast a turkey to perfection. She shared her recipes for Southern style Macaroni and cheese, Banana bread, Cole slaw, Pecan pralines, Banana pudding (with extra egg yolks, of course!), Peach pickle and many more.

She embraced me like the daughter she never had and loved my family of foreigners, including their unusual names, customs and accents! She taught me that the word ‘hair’ is a two syllable word pronounced hay-a!

We will miss you Ginny, Mom and Grandma!

Bucky, Timmy, John, Susan, Dragana, your grandchildren Alexander, Emilia and Haley, and a host of family and friends.

Prijatno!

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Beef stew with portabella mushrooms, pearl onions and red wine

Rest in peace Virginia ‘Ginny’ Harris

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