Baby bella mushroom tart

In Italy, France, eastern Europe and Russia, foraging for mushrooms in the spring and fall is a national pastime.   You know that the season is under way when neighbors behave strangely - avoiding eye-contact while discreetly wandering in the direction of the woods and emerging casually with a bounty neatly tucked out of sight in coat pockets!  Similarly, when you see cars parked in disarray on the side of the road, you can be pretty sure that scavengers are secretly searching for mushrooms in the damp woodland areas nearby.   Secrecy and protection of the fruitful sites are carried through generations, and it is rude to ask where where the mushrooms were found.

There is a magical quality to mushrooms.  I am always amazed at their instant appearance on my lawn after a rainy spell.  But because I’m mycophobic (like most of us in America) when surprised by mushrooms that have the potential of being poisonous, I don’t venture to even touch them, let alone consider eating them!  In Europe the attitude is decidedly mycophilic and children are taught to identify the edible from the poisonous at an early age.  If you are in France and there is any doubt in your mind, you can conveniently take your harvest to a pharmacist - they are all trained to identify them.

During our stay at the amazing Villa Ferraia in Tuscany, my wine group and I were treated to an afternoon of foraging in the cool, humid woods.   Amateurs at best, we were accompanied by an expert woodsman who spoke not a word of English and nodded ‘yes’, and ‘no’ to our findings.   Stefano is the culinary director at the Villa.   Here’s his find – a huge portobello!   Mushrooms flourish in humus, the decaying vegetation found on moist soil around trees and under brush. 

We were very fortunate to find a few ovoli mushrooms that day!   In researching for the name of this bright orange mushroom, I discovered that they are very rare.   They have brilliant orange caps and white stems and are very expensive to buy if you are lucky enough to find them at market.  

Always eaten raw, they were sliced thinly and wonderful paired with a local Chianti. 

Mushrooms can be called the ‘meaty’ vegetable because of their high protein content.  They can easily replace meat to balance a meal.  In this mushroom tart, I use dried porcini mushrooms and young portobello mushrooms, also known as ‘baby bellas’.   A little brandy and salty parmesan to the mix enhance the earthiness of this hearty tart.

Baby bella mushroom tart

Adapted from the Torta Salata recipe in Bologna Mia by Loretta Paganini.  Serves 8

Tart dough

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sea salt

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed in 1” pieces and chilled

2 egg yolks

5 tablespoons ice water

Filling

¼ cup dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes (reserve water after draining)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small red onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 20 oz packages Baby Bella mushrooms, brushed clean of any dirt, stems removed and thinly sliced 

¼ cup brandy

1 - 1½ teaspoons sea salt (to taste)

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

2 large eggs

1 cup whipping cream

½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

pinch of freshly ground nutmeg

1/3 cup parmesan cheese, grated

To make the tart dough:  Place flour, salt and butter in food processor (or bowl).  Pulse (or work quickly with your hands) until the butter is the size of peas.  Add egg yolks and ice water and pulse until the mixture forms a mass.  If it’s still dry, add more water, one teaspoon at a time.  Shape into a flattened ball and wrap in plastic or foil and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Butter a 9” tart pan with a removable bottom.  Sprinkle lightly with flour.  On a floured counter, roll out the dough to about an 11” circle.  Carefully transfer the dough to the tart pan.  Pat the dough so that it is snug in the bottom and sides of tart pan and trim the excess from the edge of the pan.  Prick the bottom at 1” intervals with the tines of a fork.  Chill while you prepare the filling.

To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 400ºF.  In a large saucepan, heat the oil.  Add the onions, garlic, mushrooms and drained porcini mushrooms.  Sauté over high heat for about 10 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to soften.  Add the brandy and porcini water and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes and the mixture begins to dry out.  Add salt, black pepper, red pepper flakes and parsley and combine. Remove from heat and allow the mixture to cool.

In a small bowl, whisk the eggs, cream, white pepper, nutmeg and parmesan cheese until combined.  Add to the cooled mushroom mixture and mix well.  Pour the filling into the prepared crust and bake for 35 – 40 minutes, or until deep golden brown on the top.

Cool on a rack and serve warm or at room temperature.

    Prijatno!

Beef stew with portabella mushrooms, pearl onions and red wine

The word from the weatherman is that we’re expecting sleet and “if the timing is right” maybe even a dusting of snow in Houston tomorrow.   It means that I’ll be off the roads and away from the local yahoos who will become quite a bit more dangerous than they already are in normal conditions.  Some drivers just refuse to slow down for nuthin’!

Ah…snow!  Love it for short periods of time only…like four or five days in the spring when we’re skiing!  I love the powder crunching under my skis;  love its beauty when it cloaks the mountains and in contrast with the blue sky;  love its shimmer when the sun shines;  love the snowflakes... Yes, I’ll take advantage of it for a few days a year, BUT I much prefer our temperate Houston winters, thank you very much! 

I’ve had my fair share of a Winter Wonderland when I lived in Toronto for almost 4 years.  One of my most vivid memories was walking to the bus stop to catch my bus to the university.  I had to walk backwards to protect my face from the pelting wind.  Hunched over, step by treacherous step on the icy sidewalk, I kept on thinking:  this is it - I’m going to fall on my bum and break my bones and it’s going to be sooo embarrassing, and I’m going to hit my head and be brain-damaged!  In hindsight, it would have been a little easier had I not been wearing my trendy high-heeled boots!  But fashion always came before comfort when I was a young lady in my early twenties – wouldn’t be caught dead in a pair of flat rubber-soled boots…not on your life!

I love our Houston winters.  The sun visits almost every day and we rarely need our heavy coats.  But every few years we can expect a sharp dip in the temperature and tiny snowflakes that have the staying power to blanket the ground.   It’s short-lived…the warmth of the sun takes care of that!

With the chill in the air, here’s a good recipe that will warm your insides –  beef stew with hearty mushrooms, delicate pearl onions and red wine.  Use wine that you would enjoy drinking with the stew.   I opened a 2007 Côtes-du-Rhône from Saint-Esprit, our newest best buy - inexpensive but quite good.   

Beef stew with portabella mushrooms, pearl onions and red wine

Serves 6

2 thick (1/3-inch) slices of pancetta, cubed into ½-inch pieces

2 - 2½ lbs beef stewing meat (beef chuck is good)

cooking oil, for browning

1 bag frozen pearl onions, about 14oz (they’re peeled and ready to go!)

1½ cups red wine. 1½ - 2 cups low-sodium beef broth

2 bay leaves, preferably fresh, if available

1 tablespoon Hungarian paprika

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

16 – 20 ounces baby portabella mushrooms, sliced thick

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ - 1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons flour

¼ cup freshly chopped parsley

Sear the pancetta in a heavy pot (I used my Le Creuset Dutch Oven) over high heat. With a slotted spoon, remove pancetta to a bowl and set aside. Brown the stewing meat in the remaining fat in about 3 batches, adding cooking oil if necessary. Sear meat until brown on most sides, turning the pieces quickly. Remove each batch of meat and add to pancetta in a bowl.

Add the pearl onions to the remaining oil (it’s ok if they’re still frozen) and brown them until caramel in color.  Be careful not to burn the juices and bits of meat on the bottom of the pan.

Carefully add the red wine and cook for about a minute, scraping the bottom with a spatula.  You want the wine to loosen all the delicious flavors at the bottom of the pot.  Add beef broth, bay leaves, paprika and black pepper. If most of the meat is not covered with the liquids, add more wine or broth. Reduce the heat to ‘low’ and allow the mixture to simmer slowly until the meat starts to become tender, about 1 - 1½ hours, depending on the cut of meat you use.  

Add mushrooms and red pepper flakes to meat.  Season with salt to your liking and continue to simmer until the mushrooms and meat are very tender, about 30 minutes to 1 hour.

When the meat is tender and the mushrooms are soft, whisk the flour with ¼ cup water in a small bowl until smooth. Add to stew and cook for an additional 10 minutes to thicken the broth.

To serve:  Add fresh parsley to the stew and serve with mashed potatoes or polenta.  It’s even better the next day!  Here I served it in individual soup dishes with mashed white and sweet potatoes.  Broil for a few minutes to brown the tops of the potatoes if you wish.

 

Prijatno!

Rice with mushrooms, cuttlefish and artichokes

As I write, my house if filled with the wonderful aroma of sofregit, a Catalan word for a sauté of olive oil, tomatoes, garlic and onions.  This version has red peppers and mushrooms added ….so fragrant!   Known as soffritto in the rest of Spain, sofrito in Italy, and bećar paprikaš in my homeland, Serbia, it is the flavoring component of the rice dish that is our Daring Cooks’ challenge for this month.  

Olga from Las Cosas de Olga and Olga’s Recipes is our host for August.  She has chosen a delicious Spanish recipe by José Andrés, one of the most important Spanish Chefs at the moment.  He trained under well-known Ferran Adria at his three star Michelin restaurant El Bulli.  José Andrés now lives in Washington DC and owns several restaurants in the DC area.  The recipe is from his US TV show Made in Spain.

This delicious rice dish includes cuttlefish, artichokes and a few precious threads of azafran, or saffron.  The word is derived from the Arabic asfar meaning ‘yellow’ for the vivid yellow-orange color it imparts to food and fabric.  Saffron is a collection of the stigmas and styles of the saffron crocus (Crocus sativus) flower.  One of the finest growing regions is La Mancha in Spain.  Painstaking to harvest, it is the most expensive spice by weight.  Fortunately, a few threads is all you need to season the entire dish.  In fact, too much saffron can be toxic. 

My well-travelled son spent a month in Spain this summer and gifted me with a small container of saffron - a wonderful gift for any cook! 

A key element in this dish is an Allioli ‘mayonnaise’.  It is critical to the final flavor of the rice.  And let me warn you…a little goes a looong way.   It is spicy and pungent and suits our Serbian sensibility – you can never have too much garlic!  Making the sofregit and allioli ahead of time will allow you to put the dish together quickly.

Olé Allioli!

Allioli   (I chose to make the ‘traditional’ version.  For the ‘modern’ recipe, please go to Olga’s site)
Cooking time: 20 min aprox.

4 cloves garlic, peeled

Pinch of salt

Fresh lemon juice (a few drops)

Extra-virgin olive oil (Spanish preferred but not essential)

Place the garlic in a mortar along with the salt.

Using a pestle, smash the garlic cloves to a smooth paste. (The salt stops the garlic from slipping at the bottom of the mortar as you pound it down.)

Add the lemon juice to the garlic.  Drop by drop; pour the olive oil into the mortar slowly as you continue to crush the paste with your pestle.

Keep turning your pestle in a slow, continuous circular motion in the mortar. The drip needs to be slow and steady. Make sure the paste soaks up the olive oil as you go.

Keep adding the oil, drop by drop, until you have the consistency of a very thick mayonnaise. If your allioli gets too dense, add water to thin it out. This takes time—around 20 minutes of slow motion around the mortar—to create a dense, rich sauce.

José's tips for traditional recipe: It's hard to think that, when you start crushing the garlic, it will ever turn into something as dense and smooth as allioli. But don't give up. It's worth the extra time and effort to see the oil and garlic come together before your eyes. Just make sure you're adding the olive oil slowly, drop by drop. Keep moving the pestle around the mortar in a circular motion and keep dreaming of the thick, creamy sauce at the end of it all!  I pressed the garlic through a garlic press which sped up the process.  I had a smooth allioli with a definite ‘bite’ to it.

Ingredients for the sofregit:

Sofregit  Cooking time: about 1-1 1/2 hours.   (My changes are in blue)

2 tablespoons of olive oil

5 big red ripe tomatoes, chopped

2 small onions, chopped

1 green pepper, chopped (optional)  I used 1 red pepper and 1 red jalapeno pepper

4 or 5 garlic cloves, chopped

1 cup of button or Portobello mushrooms, chopped (optional) I used a combination of button and cremini mushrooms

1 bay leaf (fresh from my garden)

Salt

a pinch of ground cumin

a pinch of dried oregano 1 fresh sprig

Put all the ingredients together in a pot and sauté slowly until all the vegetables are soft.  Taste and add salt if necessary.   You will not use all of the sofregit for this rice dish.  Here are just a few delicious ideas on how you can use the rest of it:  as a filling for omelets, on toast, on top of grilled fish,  in soups or with polenta. 

The sofregit after cooking for about 1 1/2 hours:

 Rice with mushrooms, cuttlefish and artichokes  Serves 4

2 cuttlefish   I couldn’t find cuttlefish in my part of the woods so I substituted calamari

4 artichoke hearts, each cut into eighths  I used frozen artichoke hearts but you can use canned or fresh

12 mushrooms, quartered  I used a combination of button and cremini

2 bay leaves

1 cup white wine

the sofregit

2 cups (300g) short grain rice such as Arborio, Calasparra or Montsant

about 6 cups of water or fish stock

a few saffron threads (you can substitute 1/4 teaspoon turmeric, if necessary)

the allioli

Cut the cuttlefish or calamari into thin strips. 

Heat 1 or 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan pan on high heat and add the cuttlefish/calamari in the pan.

Add the artichokes, mushrooms and bay leaves.   Sauté until the artichokes are golden.

Add a little white wine to the saucepan and about 3 spoons (I added at least 1/2 cup) of the sofregit and make sure everything gets impregnated with the sofregit.

Add the rest of the wine and the stock and bring it to boil.   Add the rice and let it cook for about 5 minutes on high heat.

Add a few saffron threads (or the turmeric) to enrich the dish with its flavor and color.  Stir a little bit so the rice and the other ingredients get the entire flavor.  Turn heat to low and boil for another 8 minutes (or until rice is a little softer than “al dente”).

Take the away from heat and let the rice stand a couple of minutes.  Serve each portion with a small dollop of allioli.

Once I had all the ingredients ready, this dish came together very quickly.  We shared it with my sister’s family and it was well liked by all.  I added a pound of large shrimp (20 count) for the final 8 minutes of cooking time because I felt that there wasn’t enough ‘meat’ to go around – there were 3 teenagers at the table, two of them over 6 feet tall! 

 For more information and instructional videos, please go to Olga’s site.  Thanks Olga for a great challenge, and two thumbs up to our founders Lis and Yvonne. 

Prijatno!

The Daring Cooks make Chinese dumplings and potstickers

This is the first official challenge for the Daring Cooks and what a way to begin – one of my family’s favorites – Chinese dumplings, or potstickers (also known as Gyoza in Japan).   I have made them in the past using store bought wrappers -  until now!  The dough comes together in seconds and rests for about 15 minutes.  Once you have the chopping for the filling behind you (I won’t lie, it takes some time to chop the veggies), it’s easy to roll, fill and pleat the dough. 

Thanks to the remarkable Jen Yu at use real butter for organizing our challenge and also to the amazing duo, Lis and Ivonne, for founding this ever-growing group of fearless bakers and cooks.

 

I have been a follower of Jen’s blog ever since I read this post at ‘use real butter’.  It was my first encounter with a food blog and it blew me away.   Jen is multi-talented, humorous, insightful, intelligent and always honest.  Her posts and photographs have awed and inspired me and some have even made me cry. 

Of Chinese decent, Jen’s recipes are not limited to specialties of the Far East, but encompass many drool-worthy non-Asian delicacies as well.  Her generosity in sharing her family recipes is well-noted and her instructional photos and detailed commentary make every step look easy.  In a couple of words: Jen rocks!

Now for the dumplings:  The whole point of Jen’s challenge is to make the dumpling wrappers from ‘scratch’ and to roll the dough with a rolling pin by hand.  This way, the wrappers will be uniform and the thickness consistent.  The ‘skin’ should be delicate and not dominate the dumpling.  I found the dough very easy to make – two ingredients in all - and a breeze to roll out. 

I was fortunate to have my dear friend, Chantal, visit from Provence on dumpling making day!  Cooking with Chantal is always a fun-filled affair and I look forward to every opportunity.  Chantal’s expert chopping techniques are evident here:

Chinese Dumplings/Potstickers

Jen’s instructions are here.   

Pork filling:
1 lb (450g) ground pork
4 large Napa cabbage leaves, minced
3 stalks green onions, minced
7 shitake mushrooms, minced (if dried - rehydrated and rinsed carefully)
1/2 cup (75g) bamboo shoots, minced
1/4 (55g) cup ginger root, minced
3 tbsp (40g) soy sauce
2 tbsp (28g) sesame oil
2 tbsp (16g) corn starch

OR

Shrimp filling:
1/2 lb (225g) raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, and coarsely chopped
1/2 lb (225g) ground pork
3 stalks green onions, minced
1/4 cup (55g) ginger root, minced
1 cup (142g) water chestnuts, minced
1 tsp (5g) salt
3 tbsp (40g) sesame oil
2 tbsp (16g) corn starch

Combine all filling ingredients in a large mixing bowl and mix thoroughly by hand. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use (up to a day, but preferably within an hour or two).

We added finely chopped Chinese chives to the pork dumplings.  I happened to have some growing in a pot outside – fancy that Jen?  They are a little different from regular chives in that they have a flat surface similar to grass and have a garlicky aroma.  We added several blades for good measure!

Dough: (double this for the amount of filling, but easier to make it in 2 batches - or just halve the filling recipe)
2 cups (250g) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (113g) warm water
flour for work surface

Make the dough: Place the flour in the work bowl of a food processor with the dough blade. Run the processor and pour the warm water in until incorporated. Pour the contents onto a work surface and knead until uniform and smooth. The dough should be firm and silky to the touch and not sticky.[Note: it’s better to have a moist dough and have to incorporate more flour than to have a dry and pilling dough and have to incorporate more water).  It will NOT be a soft bread dough.

Knead the dough about twenty strokes then cover with a damp towel for 15 minutes. Take the dough and form a flattened dome. Cut into strips about 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide. Shape the strips into rounded long cylinders. On a lightly floured surface, cut the strips into 1/2 inch pieces. Press palm down on each piece to form a flat circle (you can shape the corners in with your fingers). With a rolling pin, roll out a circular wrapper from each flat disc. Take care not to roll out too thin or the dumplings will break during cooking - about 1/16th inch. Leave the centers slightly thicker than the edges. Place a tablespoon of filling in the center of each wrapper and fold the dough in half, pleating the edges along one side (see images in post for how to fold pleats). Keep all unused dough under damp cloth.

My daughter loved the dumplings so much that I had to make another batch the following day.  Instead of the shitake mushrooms, I added a finely chopped red pepper, and water chestnuts instead of the bamboo shoots.  Dynamite!

Dumplings at attention:  it doesn’t take long when there are four hands  – Chantal rolled and I filled and pleated the dough. 

To boil: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add dumplings to pot. Boil the dumplings until they float.

To steam: Place dumplings on a single layer of Napa cabbage leaves or on a well-greased surface in a steamer basket with lid. Steam covered for about 6 minutes.

To pan fry (potstickers): Place dumplings in a frying pan with 2-3 tbsp of vegetable oil. Heat on high and fry for a few minutes until bottoms are golden. Carefully add 1/2 cup hot water and quickly cover tightly with lid. Cook until the water has boiled away and then uncover and reduce heat to medium or medium low. Let the dumplings cook for another 2 minutes then remove from heat and serve with dipping sauce.

To freeze: Assemble dumplings on a baking sheet so they are not touching. It helps to rub the base of the dumpling in a little flour before setting on the baking sheet for ease of release. Freeze for 20-30 minutes until dumplings are no longer soft. Place in Ziploc bag and freeze for up to a couple of months. Prepare per the above instructions, but allow extra time to ensure the filling is thoroughly cooked.

Dipping sauce:
2 parts soy sauce
1 part vinegar (red wine or black)
a few drops of sesame oil
chili garlic paste – we added Sriracha hot chili sauce
minced ginger to taste
minced garlic to taste
minced green onion to taste
sugar – just a pinch

For potstickers, the bottoms must be golden!  Yuuummmm!

Prijatno!